“From the kitchen into the cauldron!”

View across La Manche ~ and a little bit more!

Taken from the Magazine of the Association of Countryside Volunteers, whose Magazine I edit, and write an article each edition under the title “View across La Manche.”  La Manche (sleeve) is what the French call the English Channel.  For the purposes of this blogpost, I have re-titled it as above:

As the title might lead you to think, I’m not at home writing this.  We’ve just spent a busy 6 weeks or so at home, knocking two rooms into one and as much of the work seemed to involve kneeling or at least sitting on the floor, not least the knees needed a holiday.

So we’re in the caravan, high on the hillside above Zarautz, close to San Sebastián (or Donostia in Basque) in the Spanish part of the Basque country.  

We arrived in glorious warm sunshine earlier in the week, with stunning views over the sea and surrounding mountains, behind which for several days we have had the most glorious sunsets and then watched the fishing fleet from nearby Gataria, go out with lights blazing to the dark peaceful ocean on the search for, amongst other things anchovies, I believe?  However, unfortunately at six thirty this morning the weather changed, being in a caravan, basically a thin metal and plastic shell!, you are very aware of the weather.  A sudden early morning gust, right on key with the forecast, announced the arrival of the rain which has fallen as squally showers all day accompanied by gusty winds, the the forecast says should die out by mid-morning tomorrow.  The only dilemma I have now, as the local, slightly sparkling white Txakoli wine, from the vineyards surrounding the campsite and rather good with tonight’s fresh fish, wears off, is should I have taken the awning down before nightfall, as it is getting quite a buffeting and will be more difficult to take down in the dark, although there is a convenient street light, should the storm get much worst. 

So why here?  Well, firstly it’s convenient a mere 330 ish miles down the coast from home; we have visited the French part of the Basque country and love the atmosphere, food, drink, scenery and normally the weather!  Spring in these parts often has warm days, even if the evenings turn cooler, and a couple of days ago we sat outside the caravan enjoying a leisurely lunch in the warm sunshine!

Also, coincidentally, we are right next to the Camino de Santiago, or Way of St James, the one of the many pilgrim routes that converge on the tomb of the Apostle St. James in the cathedral at Santiago de Compostela. Interestingly, at home we are close to the Vendée branch of this well trod path, and our French neighbours have a scallop shell hanging by their door, as they host pilgrims on The Way and indeed have an official stamp to mark the pilgrim’s passports.  So, we are well used to a proliferation of scallop shells, or the shells of St Jacque as they are know in France, although interestingly many of the signs around about here simply have a crudely painted yellow arrow of a slightly more upmarket blue plastic rectangle with a yellow arrow on it.  But, enough about this famous route, as I covered it in more detail in a previous article.

But, to return to the area around us.  I have to say I am very impressed by the standard of signage for the many and varied natural and historical sites, as well as those paths I have managed to walk the dog along, yes he comes too!  Indeed he has more energy than I do, so forces me out in all weathers, but still returns to the caravan and spends some time chasing his shadow up and down the rather confined space.  I like to think he is neurotic, but fear it’s his simple way of telling me that I haven’t managed to wear him out yet!!

As one of the guide books says about “The Natural Basque Country, a little paradise to be enjoyed,” where “Mountains that rise from the sea and fall to form picturesque valleys and plains with vineyards ... The Basque Country is revealed in all its glory as a landscape full of contrasts, bewitching and full of colour,” and “Culture, heritage and nature come together in a network of natural parks spread together throughout the region.”  The Basque people are immensely proud of their land, culture, traditions and regional produce and the list of protected areas and leisure areas is impressive, when you consider that the Spanish Basque Country is roughly an equilateral triangle with sides of about 110 km or 66 miles.  Here are some of the larger natural areas / sporting opportunities, although there are numerous smaller protected areas such as Iñurritza, the cliff top fields just over the hedge from the caravan!, as well as many cultural and historical sites:

• Basque Coast Geopark
• Algorri, the Natural Resources Interpretation Centre of Zumaia
• Petrified dunes at Astondo
• Cliffs from Punta Galea to Armintza
• Bird watching areas at Txingudi wetlands, Cabo Hiquer and Aketxe Island
• Urdaibai Bird Centre, a wonderful story of two men with a passion to create something magnificent, initially with very little money
• Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve
• Oma Forest
• Gorbeia Natural Park
• Aizkorri-Aratz Natural Park
• Aralar Natural Park
• Armaňó Natural Park
• UrkiolaNatural Park
• Valderejo Natural Park
• Izki Natural Park
• Pagoeta Natural Park, incorporating a splendid, well-maintained Iturraran Botanic Gardens

• Tres Coronas (Three Crowns), the three highest peaks of the Aiako Harria range
• Grand Randonée (GR) 38 (Wine and fish route)
• GR 120 (Route of the Three Temples)
• 40 km Landscape Legacy Route
• Four mountain bike centres covering the Basque Coasrt, the Urbaibai Biosphere Reserve and the Mountains of Alava, as well as several greenways, old railway tracks converted into cycle / walking routes and hundreds of kilometres of other routes, trails and tracks. 

All this in an area of 7235 sq km (2793 sq m), just a tad larger than Lincolnshire! It’s certainly well worth a visit, even if the weather can be a little unpredictable!  Perhaps, Lincolnshire has as much to offer, I don’t know it well enough to comment.  If you know it and can enlighten me, please let me know!

P.S. The lastest squall was throwing rain against the side of the caravan so loudly that I couldn’t hear the kettle whistle when it boiledl!!