Le trompe de chasse

February 2012

Le trompe de chasse ~ Eglise Ste Hermine

I mentioned before about the winter air, particularly on a Sunday, being full of the sounds of gunshots (often very intermittent, as unlike the past the French now don’t shoot anything that moves, they are much more selective and indeed regulated), braying hounds, convoys of little white vans and the sound of mobile phones (in these days of hi technology, the hunters keep in touch by cell phone!!).  But also, more traditional methods continue and the above sounds are nothing compared to the shouting and echoing of the small, but mighty powerful, hunting horns.  Both the voices and the horns being used not only to call back the dogs and frighten the prey, but also to add to the macho excitement of the occasion, as you must remember that these hunts are in part to put food on the table, but more importantly social gatherings and for many the only time in a busy week that they can let their hair down and have a good time.  As such the majority of French hunting that we see, or more likely hear as venturing out on hunt days can be somewhat perilous particularly after lunch, during which the liquid refreshment flows freely!!

But, it’s to the horns, or trompes de chasse (hunting horns) to be precise.  On most of the small hunting parties you see they comprise of a short slightly curved brass horn about 30 cm long with a mouth piece that is blown through to produce the loud, rather harsh, calls that echo around the place, shattering the peace of an otherwise peaceful day – apart that is from  the raucous shouts and very sporadic shots.  The horns can however, be altogether more elaborate affairs, over 4 metres in length twisted around several times in a circle about 50 cm across and carried over and indeed played, with the bell facing backwards and with a detachable trumpet like mouth piece, removed to allow the substantial amount of broche (or spit) that builds up whilst the player blows forcefully through the two millimetre hole in the mouth piece.  Now, you would be forgiven for thinking I’m rather knowledgeable about these horns, previously only heard from a distance, and they are powerful enough to carry over a vast range, and also in the hands of an expert can play tunes, despite the lack of any trumpet-like valves or French horn like valve levers – indeed previously tunes have wafted through the air on particularly still days, adding a certain intrigue.  Thus intrigued, and discussing said instrument with a friend down the road, he told me that a group of horn players (I now know to be called Les Échos du Lay – The Echoes of a Song) locally give concerts and perform at the annual “Hunt Balls,” on all accounts altogether more down to earth and indeed earthy affairs than the suited and ball-gowned hooray Henry’s that come to mind when thinking about the Équivalent anglais!

So, I became determined to track down one of the concerts, and brave what I felt might be a somewhat repetitive evening of similar sounding tunes, after all there must be a limit to how many notes you can get from a thin tube (about 12 mm in diameter), a 14.5 cm pavillon (bell) and a mouthpiece with a 2 mm hole.  But, for a while the scent ran cold and nothing seemed to break cover until, early in the new year we were invited to La ceremonie des voeux (Ceremony of vows!), complete with a verre de l’amitie (avec ou sans alcool), so much more intriguing and indeed better tasting than the English equivalent of the Parish Council AGM and cup of milky tea!  This, as I have written about before, is one of several social highlights of the year and turn out is impressive, maybe in excess of 200 people out of a population of 360 ish can’t be bad, and having sat through the annual report and finances, newcomers to the village are formally welcomed and receive a gift and then the glass of friendship, or should that be glasses, and it’s time to catch up with friends, wish those you didn’t see at the beginning a Bonne année, and try to remember/judge on the hoof the requisite number of kisses on the cheek!  We took with us the friend mentioned above and drink in hand, he introduced us to his friend Bruno, a member of  Les Échos du Lay, and my education on the trompe de chasse commenced in earnest and he excitedly told us that there was a concert the Friday after next at the church in Ste Hermine.  Then, looking rather deflated, said that although they were playing there would be explanations of all of the turns before each one, and being obviously very astute had realised our limited grasp of the French language and was worried we wouldn’t understand.  Brushing this concern aside, more anxious to hear the tunes than worry about what they were about we arranged to purchase tickets, bid Bruno good night and started to leave, never a quick process in France, as the kissing starts again.  We thought it diplomatic to speak to the Mayor before leaving, and as he now realised we could speak a little of the language and perhaps understand even more, he didn’t do a runner.  When we first met him, he would wave in a friendly fashion and being a little shy and speaking no English, he would quite simply make a run for it!!  Before exchanging pleasantries with M. Maire and then taking our leave, we were approached by the secretary of the mairie, who we have always found to be brusque and businesslike to the point of being rather aloof and offhand, but not tonight, she was with a very demonstrative friend who it transpired lived some way away and spoke the rudiments of English and wanted to try it out and both of them appeared to have started on the verres de l’amitie some time before the allotted time – to the point that they were both very giggly, like a pair of naughty schoolgirls, and hopefully within walking distance of where they were sleeping that night!  At first we thought it strange that you bring your friend for a good night out at the local Parish AGM, but then decided that maybe, the secretary had inadvertently double booked and to make up for it brusqueness and businesslike had been thrown to the wind, in much the same way as people throw caution!

But, back to trumpets, well hunting horns, and as the number of days to the concert diminished, so did the temperature – the whole of Europe being thrown into a cold spell extraordinaire, with South Vendée night time temperatures (with little respite during the day) plummeting to minus six and beyond, with talk of minus 12 by the end of the week, and the concert was on the Friday!  Fortunately, the weather had stayed dry and so the roads were not icy, and so there was nothing for it but to put on as many layers as was humanly possible, including two pairs of socks, two pairs of trousers and almost too many layers on the top to count, as well as hat, gloves and scarf, as you may remember the concert was in the church – never the warmest of places!  I was the driver, so with difficulty due largely to the inability to move with all the clothes I was wearing we went to pick  up our friends and cautiously made our way, to avoid any unseen and unexpected ice patches, to the church.  We arrived about on time, but weren’t concerned as France never starts on time, but were amazed to find the square and surrounding streets outside the church, completely parked up and we just managed to grab the last space in the next car park, it was obviously a popular event and people weren’t being put off by the cold.  The cold did however make for a speedy start, as the horn players start outside and it was no time to be hanging around in the cold.  What happens is a lone horn player enters the church / venue, goes to the front and calls the others to join him.  The others then process up the aisle and the concert starts, with rather oddly the performers with their backs to the audience.  Having finished each piece they turn to the audience to accept the applause and whilst the next song is announced and explained, before once more turning their backs.  I guess the sound from the horns comes to the audience purer that way, but as the volume is fairly great, except in the quieter pieces, I’m not sure it would make that much difference.  And, the more alert amongst you will have noted that there are indeed quieter pieces, the range of notes and volume quite remarkable and every piece was different, and I’m sure reflected what was said about it in the introductions, although sadly much of this was lost as the announcer spoke too fast, at least for those of us who struggle!

But, there followed a magnificent and varied concert, with a song thrown in during each half, as the players needed a break after a good half hour or so to quite simply get their breath back!!!  And, with this being France and winter time there was vin chaud (mulled wine) available in the interval served from a covered market stall – OUTSIDE in the freezing cold and most people went out, if not for the wine then a cigarette or a “wet on the wall!!”   Then it was back in for more varied and colourful tunes, played by the ensemble who were all kitted out in a distinctive and very elegant livery comprising of tall leather boots, hunting breeches, white shirt, cravat, back waistcoat trimmed with gold braid and very smart three quarter-length hunting green coats with more gold trim around the pockets and lapels – indeed the troop cut quite a dash and enthralled the large and very varied audience from young children to the elderly.  The horn players themselves were also varied in age and it was good to see one or two younger members included, who had their own following, a group of likely looking lads sitting in front of us and who would in England have had better things to do on a Friday night, than to cheer loudly and supportively when the introduction to the group were made towards the end and their friends announced.  

So, despite earlier misgiving a good time was had by all and amazingly the church wasn’t as cold as expected, I was able to take off the hat and gloves and fortunately unzip the coat, as I don’t think I would have been able to sit down otherwise!! And, finally ...... I ought to mention that Wikipedia helped greatly in my quest to be an expert in the field!!  To find out more, just put in tompe de chasse and if the sites in French ask for a translation – more wonders of modern technology!

P.S: Just a quickie, on what might be called “The House!” front, particularly for those missing the previous missive format!!!  The other day I ended up completing diametrically opposed jobs:  First, I have been forced into putting down some mouse poison, to cut down on the Olympic training that seems to go on above our heads at night, with mice running backwards and forwards keeping us awake.  (So much for Ici devant nous!) Then, I ended up covering over the hole in the ceiling where we had relocated a lighting rose, initially to stop the draught but also, to stop the mice falling through and hurting themselves!!  Maybe, in hindsight that should come under The Day’s Thought!