Saturday, August 8, 2015

Some recent events and observations

Superman-like surge

No, it says surge not urge, I haven’t started to inexplicably wear my underpants on the outside of my trousers, but I did recently get close to that “is it a bird, is it a plane ......”  Superman moment.

With the long light evenings of summer we usually take Fergus out for a walk after dinner, theoretically, in the cool of the evening but recently this hasn’t been happening, the evenings and nights staying rather warm.

As is often the case when some noteworthy event happens, this particular evening I was walking alone, except for the dog, and even he wasn’t there to confirm my story as explained below, although the reason said surge remained there for all to see for a number of days afterwards, as also described below!

It had been a very pleasant walk over the bridge by the ford, or in the dog’s case through the ford, up the hill on the track through the fields, or in the dog’s case all over the fields as he still chases his shadow and still it refuses to stop and play!  Then, along the track that goes through the edge of the wood, with the lowering sun causing all sorts of wild animals to loom amongst the trees which all needed chasing, before retracing our steps and returning home a slightly different way, down the track that comes behind the mill, which is now a rather picturesque gîte, and passed our garden.

Fergus, as now he is older and wiser, is usually very good, running off and periodically returning for the odd “high five” and a couple of meaty treats before busily exploring the area again, unless he has a better offer and then he becomes selective with his hearing (typical male I hear all the ladies amongst you say – to which I say NO!  It’s a typical trait of the Irish Setter, which in Fergus’ case is his mother’s half!)

Well we were nearly home and just as we turned the final corner before Fergus sits obediently waiting for his lead to go on before walking back into the hamlet, he had a better offer in the shape of a hare which took one look at Fergus and took off with him in very hot pursuit!  Well, he’s been known to get mighty close to bagging us a tasty dinner, although I think if he caught one he’d not know what to do and would probably simply want to play tag, and this time the poor hare had barely a head start.  Fortunately, it had the presence of mind to take evasive action and dart through a thick hedge through to the cow field beyond.  Well, although quite capable of crashing his way through most of the local hedges, Fergus is a bit of a wimp, but a canny one at that as he quickly retraced his steps went through the nearby gate and back along the other side of the hedge in a flanking movement that was rather late.  The prey had well and truly gone, but Fergus found himself in a cow field and is rather partial to what they leave behind, not putting too fine a point on it, he either eats it or rolls in it!!!  At this stage he started to run down the field, with something other than meaty chunks and his lead in mind.

Now, I mentioned the gîte earlier and as we’re very much in the height of the season it was occupied by a couple from Reunion, a French department which is an island in the Indian Ocean, who for the last couple of years have based themselves here for 3 weeks to a month and had various family come to visit them during their stay.  Well, it was Saturday night and lots of family were visiting and a party was well under way in the warm evening outside the gîte, the wine had been flowing for some time and subsequently the volume of conversation had risen.  So, here was Fergus heading down the field towards the gîte and if there’s one thing he prefers to cow dung it’s socialising with lots of people, he’s quite the party animal!

Drastic action was needed, as if I didn’t manage to head him off at the bottom I had visions of an upturned barbecue with Fergus licking up the spilt meat and introducing himself to the surprised company.  So in a moment of panic I surged off to intercept him, but this was only a simple surge, not a superhero one, there was more to come.  As I ran headlong down the track, calling Fergus with the promise of semi-moist meaty chunks instead of succulent barbecued steak and sausages, in mid air between strides I took my eye of the dog and there curled up on the ground, with my leading foot heading towards it was a large snake.  Hence the Superman-like surge, as although I was already in a down trajectory, I flew just like Superman, without the aid of a telephone box, and landed a safe distance away having uttered a rather loud “oh my god!” or possibly something worse.  Momentum carried me on my way, adrenalin helped me catch the dog before he gate-crashed the party and with racing heart, in this case not caused by physical exertion, I very gingerly retraced my steps to see if the serpent was still there.

Surprisingly it was, as it was neatly coiled up but dead, something having appeared to have squashed its head.  Maybe the last person to run by didn’t have superhero powers, just the luck of the Irish to have trod in just the right place!!

As I said before, the evidence stayed there for several days, and each time I walked by the heart beat a little faster, even though I knew it was dead and I was mightily relieved when finally it had gone.  Just for the record it was only a grass snake, a relatively small one at about 120 cm or four feet, but rather surprisingly, as I soared above it, it looked altogether alive and bigger and they do bite!

I picked up some litter today

Now on the face of it that might not seem that big a deal, indeed over the years I have taken part in a number of “litter picks,” blitzes to tidy up an area that has become clogged with litter, be it lay byes on the A46 towards Bath from Stroud, local picnic sites or school fields.  On these occasions I have at times been surprised and disgusted at just what people will leave behind, so as not to go into too much details let’s just stop at soiled disposable nappies!

There was also another occasion, when with a group of other countryside wardens, we ended up helping the police with their enquiries, as we had apparently cleared an area that the police thought had been the site of a recent murder and wanted to know if any of us remembered finding a gentleman’s shoe or wrist watch.  Unfortunately, we weren’t in fact much help with their enquiries as all we had cleared away was the “normal” sweet wrappers, crisp packets, plastic bottles, tins and the odd nappy!

But no, this was not an organised litter pick, I was simply out walking the dog and saw a discarded wrapper for some item of fishing tackle called a “Stop Flott Gummi Stopper” which initially I had no idea what it was for, not being a fisherman, until I read the packet.  My limited French leads me to believe that it is a piece of kit that helps to keep your float upright, but being no expert I’m happy, if necessary, to be put right on this.

So what is unusual about this?  Quite simply that on a fairly popular walk that I regularly do, and takes me about one and a half hours, seeing any rubbish at all is quite unusual.  It seems that particularly in the countryside the French quite simply don’t throw rubbish on the ground.  It does happen and towns can be worse, but it is relatively uncommon and generally rubbish is either taken home or put in the bins provided, which are regularly emptied, or in urban areas street cleaning is an all too obvious priority.  This to some extent dispels the myth commonly expressed in the UK that to provide bins tends to act as a catalyst for rubbish, where overflowing bins merely attract more and more rubbish.  The crucial elements here, I believe are that where bins are provided they need to be regularly emptied and civic pride, something I’ve written about before, is often much stronger in France than the UK, it is something the French seem to expect from the payment of their taxes.

I’m taking it as a compliment

Earlier in the month (July) we dined at L’Assiette Gourmand, the restaurant in the nearby small town, that a couple of years ago, moved across the road from a rather small premises, where in many ways it was like a bar that served food, to much larger premises, the converted old fire station.  Supposedly, the major refurbishment was made possible by a loan from the Mayor’s office, and now the local town boasts a large modern vibrant restaurant, tastefully decorated and with a good sided terrace built out over where the fire appliances rolled out of their garage onto the road.

It was a Monday night and so we were a little worried that we would be dining alone, just Linda, my Mum and myself, which although not a big problem, I do feel that fuller restaurants have a greater ambiance.

But, we were pleasantly surprised to find two French touring cyclists sitting having a drink on the terrace waiting for their food to arrive and inside, where we choose to sit as the warmth of the day’s sun was beginning to fade, a French couple at the bar and an English couple and their two dogs, one recently rescued, who we had met just a couple of weeks before having English Fish and Chips from a mobile van that parks each week outside a number of local bars.  They were sitting waiting to order chatting, in best pigeon French, with an older Frenchman from the village.

As we chatted with the English couple, whilst ordering an aperitif and our food, a family of three, possibly Dutch people arrived on the terrace to dine and a French lady came inside, on her own with a small pug-like dog, with whom, after the dogs had had a little tiff, we exchanged pleasantries, initially in French, but then found she was able to converse well in English.

The English couple, relative newcomers to the village, having lived there about two years, were very chatty and we found ourselves swapping stories between the courses, and involving the French lady periodically in our conversations.  And, being in France, with the wine flowing some of the conversation became quite animated, with the other man telling the French lady how beautiful she was and me complimenting her on her excellent English.

Having finished her moules (mussels) and had a brief café (coffee), she finished before us, as we were having the three course fixed menu, she got up to leave, tried unsuccessfully to get the dogs to make up after the earlier tiff, and approached our table.  Before wishing us a bon nuit (goodnight), she told us that when she had been having her English lessons, her professor (teacher), had told her she was the class bavarde or chatterbox, but she felt that the other Englishman and I were far worthier of the designation than her, and with a cheery chuckle, a bon nuit and an à bientôt see you soon), she left.

I certainly took it as a compliment, as the French so often accuse the English of being somewhat reserved and though I suspect many of you may find it hard to believe, I used to be shy and retiring, and ‘er indoors will vouch for that!! (‘er indoors: “Certainly not now!)

Corks popping, ropes breaking, Bastille Day ended with a bang

Bastille Day, or to give it its proper title of Fête de la Fédération (French National Day), takes place each year on 14th July, and is a big occasion and much celebrated across the nation. It is the day that in 1798 the infamous French castle, arsenal and prison, La Bastille was stormed and destroyed during the French Revolution, effectively a symbolic day that caused the end of the absolute monarchy.

Many communes (similar to English parishes) celebrate the day with a variety of events, culminating in impressive firework displays, which due to the time of year and the long evenings, often don’t start until close to midnight.

Our own commune has for a number of years held a number of activities on the day.  The last couple of years this has started with a morning commune walk or bike ride with a refreshment stop part way round – water, juice, cake, fruit, chocolate and wine, remember it’s still about 10.30 a.m.!, that ends up at the football ground for a an aperitif or two provided by la municipalité (parish council) and where many of the other inhabitants join in, then most of the people sit down for a picnic they have bought along on a long trestle table with a plastic table cloth, usually advertising a bank!, stretched along it.  The various picnics are grand affairs, often with china plates extra table clothes and several courses of food, frequently ending with large flans or tarts being offered around.  All this is liberally washed down with wine, naturally in real glass glasses, and habitually offered to neighbours, so it’s quite a boozy affair! 

For the last couple of years, once the eating was finished a near neighbour of ours has come around with a small dust encrusted bottle of homemade absinth, an evil brew with a taste that doesn’t go away for some hours, in this case long into the evening, and which another of our neighbours found himself strangely craving for more!  But bizarrely this year, a new trend seems to have started and there seemed a steady stream of people coming around with bottles of almanac, cognac and various homemade concoctions of a similar type.  This is all the more strange as the French taste for such liquors as a digestive after a meal has dwindled, at the same time as the French seem to be drinking increasing amounts of whisky, largely as an aperitif before the meal!

With a degree of trepidation there followed a games afternoon, as after the lunchtime refreshments there was a slight worry that getting up might prove rather difficult, and I almost felt that a quiet sitting down game of French Scrabble, as being set up by the older contingent, might be preferable!  But no, tradition we were told meant an afternoon of frivolity, and to ensure maximum participation and to mix us all up we had to draw a name from a hat and find the right partner for the first games; a tournament including a sack race, a three legged race and an egg and spoon race with the spoon held in your mouth and a table tennis ball instead of an egg!!  Well, the pairs it transpired were all royal couples from Europe: William and Kate, Charles and Camilla, Albert and Charlene (from Monaco, not Victoria as I thought), Elizabeth and Philip and so on....  Strangely the French are mildly obsessed with royalty and often know more about the UK monarchy than I do!  It was a neighbour, the one who produces the absinth, that commiserated with me when Camilla’s brother died unexpectedly, and I’m sure they knew each time Kate went into labour long I even knew she was expecting!!!  Suddenly, whilst writing this, I just seen the irony of this; using royal couples to select partners for games on the day France celebrates becoming a republic and the end of their absolute monarchy!!!

But, let the games commence!  I have to admit that my Charlene, yes I was Prince Albert of Monaco, cheated and used chewing gum in the egg and spoon race, however it was worth it to see the bemused look on the faces of a number of rather merry villagers, puzzling as to how we could run so fast balancing a table tennis ball on a steeply angled plastic spoon!! Still it was just for the fun of it, no prizes just merriment and ridicule!  I should say at this point that these games were largely for the adults who were young enough and fit enough to participate, the children had a bouncy castle and a football, the old people were playing scrabble and other board games or the fiercely complicated local card game called belot, and for those of such a disposition the fishing lake next door to the football ground was freely available.

Then, things turned serious, a long rope was stretched across the football pitch and two teams, children against the rest lined up to do battle with the tire à la corde or tug of war.  It’s amazing how strong a group of children can be, particularly when helped by a number of strong young adults, but on the first pull after the initial shock, age and experience won over and with a final heave we pulled the ribbon over the line and ended up in a heap on the ground.  The second pull somehow we failed to regroup sufficiently and the youngsters equalised!  But, by the third pull we had their measure and won handsomely and perhaps we all should have settled for the best out of three, as on the next pull whilst making good ground we all, on both sides fell into a heap, the stout rope having broken in the middle!!  Not to be thwarted, the young farmers decided to tie the two ends together at first not very successfully, until taken in hand by someone who must have been in the scouts, and managed a good secure knot, well tested by the group of young farmers.  So battle was able to commence, but was quickly over as once more with the older and wiser team digging deep and making good progress, the rope broke again in a different place, well at least the knot held!!

After that things quietened down and it was time for the traditional sweet Vendéen brioche to be passed around, and yes I’m sure you’ve guessed it, complete with a verre de l’amitié / a glass of friendship, not a cup of tea in sight!!

Surprisingly, later that night after admittedly a bit of a snooze, we were back out again for the fireworks at the nearby town, preceded by a typically haphazardly lantern procession, where all the local children follow a minibus with its back door open and a loud sound system blaring out.  The children follow with paper Chinese lanterns on short sticks each containing a burning night light – yes a naked flame and not a risk assessment in sight!!  At least for the last couple of years the local pompiers (firemen) have decided against their wheeled handcart containing powerful Roman candle like fireworks, quite simply spewing out enormous flames in all directions all over the crowds lining the route!  What a shame to spoil the fun!

Shortly after the procession returned, having it seems avoided setting light to anyone, the most amazing fireworks roared, banged, whizzed, screamed, flashed and cascaded into the night sky for at least ten to fifteen minutes, and I couldn’t help feeling that it was quite sufficient fire power to have razed La Bastille to the ground, if it hadn’t already been done 217 years before!  Good to know, France still celebrates after all this time, and indeed to be part of it!

Roger you’re so strong!

As a quick postscript I must tell you of a further compliment I was recently paid.  Having done my bit in the blazing sunshine, to pull the young village upstarts across the football field by means of a think long rope, as well as helping to break said rope, as documented above, I returned somewhat sweaty and exhausted to my seat. My exhaustion and lethargy as I plodded wearily back was immediately forgotten as our neighbour, Yvette, jumped up off her bench as only a lady of about eighty can do and called to me “Roger you’re so strong,” and as I stood proudly upright, previous fatigue all but forgotten, I noticed her four or five females cronies all of a similar age, all animatedly agreeing with her!  Well, although I say so myself, I always have been one to turn the lady’s heads, albeit normally to look the other way!!


Wednesday, July 8, 2015


“From the kitchen into the cauldron!”

View across La Manche ~ and a little bit more!

Taken from the Magazine of the Association of Countryside Volunteers, whose Magazine I edit, and write an article each edition under the title “View across La Manche.”  La Manche (sleeve) is what the French call the English Channel.  For the purposes of this blogpost, I have re-titled it as above:

As the title might lead you to think, I’m not at home writing this.  We’ve just spent a busy 6 weeks or so at home, knocking two rooms into one and as much of the work seemed to involve kneeling or at least sitting on the floor, not least the knees needed a holiday.

So we’re in the caravan, high on the hillside above Zarautz, close to San Sebastián (or Donostia in Basque) in the Spanish part of the Basque country.  


We arrived in glorious warm sunshine earlier in the week, with stunning views over the sea and surrounding mountains, behind which for several days we have had the most glorious sunsets and then watched the fishing fleet from nearby Gataria, go out with lights blazing to the dark peaceful ocean on the search for, amongst other things anchovies, I believe?  However, unfortunately at six thirty this morning the weather changed, being in a caravan, basically a thin metal and plastic shell!, you are very aware of the weather.  A sudden early morning gust, right on key with the forecast, announced the arrival of the rain which has fallen as squally showers all day accompanied by gusty winds, the the forecast says should die out by mid-morning tomorrow.  The only dilemma I have now, as the local, slightly sparkling white Txakoli wine, from the vineyards surrounding the campsite and rather good with tonight’s fresh fish, wears off, is should I have taken the awning down before nightfall, as it is getting quite a buffeting and will be more difficult to take down in the dark, although there is a convenient street light, should the storm get much worst. 

So why here?  Well, firstly it’s convenient a mere 330 ish miles down the coast from home; we have visited the French part of the Basque country and love the atmosphere, food, drink, scenery and normally the weather!  Spring in these parts often has warm days, even if the evenings turn cooler, and a couple of days ago we sat outside the caravan enjoying a leisurely lunch in the warm sunshine!


Also, coincidentally, we are right next to the Camino de Santiago, or Way of St James, the one of the many pilgrim routes that converge on the tomb of the Apostle St. James in the cathedral at Santiago de Compostela. Interestingly, at home we are close to the Vendée branch of this well trod path, and our French neighbours have a scallop shell hanging by their door, as they host pilgrims on The Way and indeed have an official stamp to mark the pilgrim’s passports.  So, we are well used to a proliferation of scallop shells, or the shells of St Jacque as they are know in France, although interestingly many of the signs around about here simply have a crudely painted yellow arrow of a slightly more upmarket blue plastic rectangle with a yellow arrow on it.  But, enough about this famous route, as I covered it in more detail in a previous article.


But, to return to the area around us.  I have to say I am very impressed by the standard of signage for the many and varied natural and historical sites, as well as those paths I have managed to walk the dog along, yes he comes too!  Indeed he has more energy than I do, so forces me out in all weathers, but still returns to the caravan and spends some time chasing his shadow up and down the rather confined space.  I like to think he is neurotic, but fear it’s his simple way of telling me that I haven’t managed to wear him out yet!!


As one of the guide books says about “The Natural Basque Country, a little paradise to be enjoyed,” where “Mountains that rise from the sea and fall to form picturesque valleys and plains with vineyards ... The Basque Country is revealed in all its glory as a landscape full of contrasts, bewitching and full of colour,” and “Culture, heritage and nature come together in a network of natural parks spread together throughout the region.”  The Basque people are immensely proud of their land, culture, traditions and regional produce and the list of protected areas and leisure areas is impressive, when you consider that the Spanish Basque Country is roughly an equilateral triangle with sides of about 110 km or 66 miles.  Here are some of the larger natural areas / sporting opportunities, although there are numerous smaller protected areas such as Iñurritza, the cliff top fields just over the hedge from the caravan!, as well as many cultural and historical sites:
  • Basque Coast Geopark
  • Algorri, the Natural Resources Interpretation Centre of Zumaia
  • Petrified dunes at Astondo
  • Cliffs from Punta Galea to Armintza
  • Bird watching areas at Txingudi wetlands, Cabo Hiquer and Aketxe Island
  • Urdaibai Bird Centre, a wonderful story of two men with a passion to create something magnificent, initially with very little money
  • Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve
  • Oma Forest
  • Gorbeia Natural Park
  • Aizkorri-Aratz Natural Park
  • Aralar Natural Park
  • Armaňó Natural Park
  • UrkiolaNatural Park
  • Valderejo Natural Park
  • Izki Natural Park
  • Pagoeta Natural Park, incorporating a splendid, well-maintained Iturraran Botanic Gardens
  • Tres Coronas (Three Crowns), the three highest peaks of the Aiako Harria range
  • Grand Randonée (GR) 38 (Wine and fish route)
  • GR 120 (Route of the Three Temples)
  • 40 km Landscape Legacy Route
  • Four mountain bike centres covering the Basque Coasrt, the Urbaibai Biosphere Reserve and the Mountains of Alava, as well as several greenways, old railway tracks converted into cycle / walking routes and hundreds of kilometres of other routes, trails and tracks. 

All this in an area of 7235 sq km (2793 sq m), just a tad larger than Lincolnshire! It’s certainly well worth a visit, even if the weather can be a little unpredictable!  Perhaps, Lincolnshire has as much to offer, I don’t know it well enough to comment.  If you know it and can enlighten me, please let me know!

P.S. The lastest squall was throwing rain against the side of the caravan so loudly that I couldn’t hear the kettle whistle when it boiledl!!  

Friday, November 14, 2014


Unfinished business

You may remember back in September a blog post called “Back with a bit of a travelogue” where I promised a number of future offerings or as I called them in the blog post things to “look out for ~ lof’s!”?  Well this is one of them!

I’m going to take you back to the Costa Brava in early spring sunshine in March of this year, when Fergus (the dog in case you’ve missed that event!) was a mere 7 months old and I had just turned 58 and was realising that as the days and weeks went past, Fergus was not only growing rapidly and getting bigger than his puppy paws would have led us to believe, but he was also needing an increasing amount of exercise, increasing at a similarly alarming rate to his size!  This unfortunately coincided with me having a few problems with my legs and feet, nothing serious just a combination of lack of decent length walks and not getting any younger.  I know that 58 isn’t that old, but as I read somewhere the other day, you know that you’re not getting any younger, when you can’t stand up quietly, and I certainly seemed to have got to the early groaning stage.  Since realising this I now, not always very successfully, try to jump up effortlessly and above all quietly, after all as they say, you’re as old as you feel.

But, more seriously, I was beginning to wonder if I would be able to give Fergus enough exercise as he certainly had more energy than me.  Fortunately, he runs like the wind and can even on the dullest of days still find a shadow to chase, thinking it’s another dog that wants to play, and regularly covers several times more than I do on our twice daily walks.

Well, north of the caravan site we were staying at, was a large expanse of relatively flat, just slightly undulating landscape, backed in the far distance by the peaks of the eastern Pyrenees still snow covered at this early part of the year.  Then, tantalisingly in the middle distance was a small rocky ridge, rising to a castle topped peak in the middle, a veritable mini-mountain rising steeply from the surrounding plain just begging to be climbed.  At the foot of the mountain closest to our campsite, was a small town the environs of which could be seen climbing tentatively up the lower slopes, before the landscape became too steep and too rough for development to creep any further, and it was the roads that similarly crept part way up the mountainside that finally persuaded me that a good walk, up part of the mountain – perhaps to the saddle that dipped between the castle topped peak and the next peak – ought at least to be attempted, despite my slightly dodgy legs and the dogs still developing legs!  So off we set in the car across the plain and after a couple of wrong turns managed to find somewhere to park, just below the now rather daunting-looking climb to the saddle, having got this close the scale of the climb had become all too apparent.  A surprisingly flat path headed away from the car park, but all too quickly started zigzagging up the rapidly increasing slope, before getting to the rather alarming looking final near vertical scramble up to the saddle, but having come this far we had to at least try to get some of the way and gain enough height to enjoy the view spread out below.  Armed with camera, water, some sustenance for us both and I have to admit, at least on my part, something of a faint heart we hit the trail and quickly reached the zigzags and gained height at an amazing rate, it felt great to be in “them there hills” again and experience once more the speed with which you can find yourself ascending a mountain, with the landscape quickly dropping away below your feet.

It was very hot and I started worrying about whether I had enough water for the both of us, but Fergus seemed less concerned darting in and out of the scrubby undergrowth without a care in the world, until a group of young hippies came towards us with a number of large dogs, one particularly snarling and fearsome looking, causing Fergus to now worry and hide behind me with an almost audible “Daddy, save me!”  But as with all such dogs they quickly came to heel and we were once more able to concentrate on the climb and reaching the saddle, on which there appeared to be some sort of monument or large waymark, which as we passed the second small bothy like building and got to the final ascent, it became apparent it was a cross, hopefully not commemorating the demise of the last “mad dog and Englishman” who had ventured out in the mid afternoon sun and tried to climb the mountain.

Amazingly, despite the heat and thankful that we weren’t the only ones making the climb, we were still going well and half way up the final scramble, got in conversation, in French, with a Spanish couple who lived in the town below, who were bemoaning the economic situation in Spain and wondering, somewhat tongue in cheek, whether I thought they could get a job in England, and could maybe even help a little to get them on the employment ladder!  They realised then that as I actually lived in France, the best laid plans were somewhat thwarted and we parted with a laugh and a cheery “au revoir, bon après midi, bon continuation ....” as now seems to be the norm, certainly in France – none of this quick bye, a wave of the hand and off you stride.

Still chuckling about the earlier informal job interview, we were suddenly there at the saddle, standing next to the cross, with the rest of the mountain still towering above us:

We then exchanged something of a meaningful glance at each other, Fergus and I that is, and perhaps both feeling better than we had anticipated, mutually decided to go for the top, even though it was obvious that after a short grassy slope, the path then zigzagged its way through a barren rock field!  The going wasn’t easy, particularly on two feet, and it was apparent a number of times that tender age wasn’t holding Fergus back, and several times he stopped a level or two above me as if to say, come on what’s holding you up!

We then had another conversation with a French couple, this time in English, who were on the way down and did what people the world over do in situations like this; they lied and said not much further now!  And, funnily enough on the way down I did the self same thing to another couple puffing their way up through the rough boulder field!!  But eventually, and after quite a bit further, we crested the top, admired the view, read a plaque about the unfinished castle at the top, inside of which we found a shady spot to sit and rest contemplating, for me at least, the effect that the descent might have on my knees, but above all we both had that real sense of achievement, of actually standing on top of this little part of the world.  A first for Fergus, doesn’t he look proud, and proof perhaps for me that there were still mountains to be climbed!

We made it down, quite uneventfully, and both arrived back at the caravan, babbling excitedly – we made it, we did it, we climbed a mountain!!  Maybe the castle on the top is unfinished, but perhaps not my “climbing” days, maybe I can give the dog a run for his money – I must point out  with this last statement that euphoria was slightly clouding my judgement, as confirmed earlier today, when Fergus put up a hare and gave it quite a run for its money!  Indeed, at one point I had visions of hare on the menu tomorrow!!

And, whilst thinking of tomorrow, more importantly the next day, although not quite as raring to go as Fergus, I was fit and well enough for the hill behind the campsite, well it was merely a blip in comparison with the previous day, but it still felt good, and below, the view from the previous day’s summit, is one of the reasons why it would be a shame not to climb the odd mountain or two in the future and if the going gets too tough, Fergus is now big and strong enough to pull me up some of the way!!

 

 

          

Friday, October 31, 2014


Mes amis les français

This post is dedicated to Heulwen, who recently enquired as to when the next instalment was due out and therefore encouraged me to put fingers to keyboard.  Also Happy 80th Birthday to her!

When we first moved to France we made a decision that we would try despite limited French, to integrate as much as possible into the life of our commune, or parish as it would be in England.  This has meant attending meetings where proceedings were at best hazy and playing four hours of Lotto (Bingo) after which the head hurt somewhat, but this has been a small price to pay for other events such as the annual village walk and picnic, which once we moved takes place each year by the bread oven that borders our garden and then moves into our neighbours garden for the picnic.  This picnic starts with a glass or several of trouspinette, the local aperitif made from the new spring shoots of the blackthorn bush, which has a surprising fruitiness, despite the lack of any fruit other than the grapes that are used to make the rosé wine that the concentrate is blended with.  The concentrate is simply made by soaking a large bundle of the blackthorn shoots in eau de vie or “alcool pour fruit” that is sold in the local supermarkets with some added sugar, and within half an hour of mixing the liquor takes on an amazing fruity smell, which intensifies over the two weeks that the leaves are steeped for.  Accompanying the aperitif are large trays of the local flattened garlic bread, called préfou, made with lashings of butter and garlic added to a squashed baguette and cooked with other tasty morsels in the bread oven, which has been warming up since being first fired up on the Thursday before, the picnic taking place on Sunday.

Other activities have included other picnics, games afternoons and for the last three years I have “ho ho ho’ed” my way through the children’s Christmas party and am booked again for the end of next month!  Interestingly, on my first appearance Père Noël was the strong silent type, hopefully not too much of a shock for the children, as the previous year he had spoken French fluently and was incidentally obviously an imposer as he was short, thin and clean shaven.  However, as the years have gone by the language has improved and last year a petit histoire was enough to impress our French neighbours, although there was nearly an incident the previous year when having told the children I had lost my reindeers in the nearby wood, one of the children informed me that one of them was behind me (had my French been better a pantomime might have ensued!).  Slightly at a loss as to how to proceed, as the child was most insistent that there was actually a reindeer behind me, I played along and turned around, to come face to face with the most amazingly large stag’s head hunting trophy that I had forgotten adored the wall of the village hall just behind where I was sitting!  The incident, well at a loss as to what to say, I told the thirty or more excited and expectant faces sitting on the floor in front of me that it was no good as IT WAS DEAD!  You can imagine what the headlines in the local paper might have been the following day “Santa grounded by death of Rudolph!”  But, fortunately chocolate saved the day as I quickly went on to ask the children “if they had been good” and presented them with their chocolate Advent calendars.  Thinking about it, I’m not sure if I’ve been invited back again this year, although I have a feeling that once in it’s a job for life!!

So, you get the picture, we’ve been trying to integrate, at times the only English people at various events such as hamlet soirées, and also trying hard not be too much the “ex-pat,” a term I dislike intensely and that reminds me rather of those unfortunate few that are around and do little other than attend English clubs and activities, and as we once overheard on a ferry, make statements like:  “I’ve lived in France now for six years, I spoke none of the lingo when I arrived, still don’t and have no intention of learning any!”  How very sad and excessively rude to what is his adopted country.

So, we now have a number of French friends with whom we are able to pass the time of day, even if we’re not quite at the “politics, religion and sex” stage yet, although we did touch on a couple of these topics at a recent dinner party, when neighbours of my cousin who has recently brought as house close by, and who speak no English, were the only French people there.  We found that the whole evening ended up being carried out in French.  This was made much easier as the couple in question spoke slowly and clearly, not least because there were not native French speakers there.  As happens when a group of English people get together, the French en masse speak too quickly and often over one another, making it very difficult to follow. 

Having acquired a few French friends is indeed the very reason that after renting a house in this commune for two and a half years, we have ended up buying a house that doesn’t perhaps tick all the boxes, but is still within the same commune.  When we were about to embark on house hunting in earnest, and thinking about moving somewhere within a radius of 10 miles or so, we had visitors and I dashed to the bread shop in the local village.  On the way there everyone I passed I knew enough to wave cheerily to, once in the shop I bumped into a French friend who lived just down the road from us and passed the time of day with her, whilst the lady behind the counter reached behind her for my “usual” loaf of bread.  Then, on my return again I knew everyone I passed.  I got back and said to Linda, “we can’t move away from this commune as we’d have to start building up friendships and acquaintances all over again, we come a long way in two and a half years, it would be silly to have to start again!”

Since living in France and particularly over the last couple of years we have renewed a friendship with a French couple, Ray and Yvonne, who live near Brest in Brittany, whom we first met through a European school link project, some 15 years ago.  This year we met up with them in Brittany and later near Rochefort, on the coast south of La Rochelle, where they go each year for La Cure, which is a three week long spa treatment, provided by the state, to ease a back condition that Ray has, Yvonne is also allowed to go along as part of the package, all they have to pay is for the apartment they rent.  It’s all part of France’s amazing preventative / alternative medical system, designed to ease problems before they happen.

On the second occasion we met them this year we took the caravan down to a lovely coastal site at Fouras, just north of Rochefort and on one of the days met up with them to visit an amazing working transporter bridge that spans the river just south of Rochefort.  Whilst with them, Yvonne who was previously a Headteacher of an école primaire near Brest, started reminiscing about a visit she had made to us in Stroud accompanied her Chair of Governor’s wife and two of her children.  The eldest child, then about 14 or 15 and now incidentally working in a high powered financial job in the City of London, found my mispronunciation of various French words rather amusing, as the French tend to be very precise with their pronunciation, and often Yvonne will correct something I say and tell me I should say it in a particular way, which to my ear sounds exactly how I have just said it!!  

One word that particularly made the son rather giggly, was a word I was saying that I made sound rather like a French word for bottom!, and apparently all these years later I’m still doing it!!

It was as we got off the transporter bridge that I politely “merci beaucoup’d” the young lady operating the controls and who had been able to tell us some of the history of the bridge and similar ones around the world in excellent English.  This exchange reduced Yvonne to fits of giggles as apparently I had just said to the young lady “thank you, nice bottom!”

Well, as I’ve been “merci beau ... coup’ing” everyone, male or female, for the last five years and more in the same manner, maybe this has done more to help our integration than any amount of attendance at village events and could also explain, why so often they reply “mon plaisir!”         

Monday, September 8, 2014


Wow – what a lot of sand!

 
I must admit to cheating a little with this blog post, as most of it first saw the “light of day” in a magazine I edit for the Association of Countryside Volunteers, of which I am currently the chairman, under the title of View Across La Manche, a regular feature I write about various countryside issues on the French side of La Manche.  I guess for obvious reasons the French don’t call the narrow stretch of water between them and England the English Channel, instead referring to it, for again obvious reasons, as La Manche or The Sleeve.
 

Back around Easter time, we visited Bordeaux and courtesy of my daughter Victoria climbed the highest sand dune in Europe, not once but twice and this after the last time I walked just a little way on a sandy beach left me, for some time, in a lot of pain, something having complained in my left knee!!
 
But, the Great Dune de Pilat or Pyla, was worth every step, even though when we started off the easy way; a plastic staircase up the side was closed for maintenance, so it was soft sand all the way up, down the far side to dip a toe in the adjacent Atlantic Ocean and back up over the top.  Incidentally, the correct name is apparently Pilat, which comes from the Gascon word for heap or mound, and which ever meaning you opt for it’s something of an underestimate.
 
 
Now, the dune in question totally exceeded my expectations and was quite simply mind blowing.  You approach it through pine woodland, from a well kept albeit rather complicated parking area, passing through the ubiquitous gift shops and restaurants offering such things as dune burgers, reminiscent of childhood picnics on the beach, when however careful you were sand always got in the sandwiches and inside your swimming trunks!!  The tat over and you get your first glimpse through the trees of the splendour you are about to encounter, a steep bank of sand rising at the back some 50 metres above you, falling away the other side slightly less steeply in excess of 105 metres down to the blue Atlantic Ocean, with a number of interesting sand bars and spits spreading across the entrance to Arcachon Bay, near the small town of La Teste de Buch, in the Gironde department of South west France 40 miles from Bordeaux.  
 

 
This massive 100m plus dune is 2.7 km long and 500 m wide and these breathtaking dimensions can be admired throughout the year. Even in winter it is worth the visit, when if you are really lucky you might experience the dune covered with snow.
 
The dune is always in motion, created by wind and tidal movement, which combine to make the dune move further inland by several metres each year. The moving sand therefore has gradually swallowed the surrounding pine forest and several campsites as the overwhelming mass of 60,000,000 cubic metres of sand continues to move.

The dune is currently being considered as one of Grand Sites of France.
 
Currently there are about 14 sites (sites can come and go dependant on the strict criteria) that have been confirmed with this label, such as the Baie de Somme, the Marais Poitevin marshes near to us, Pont to Gard and the Puy de Dôme.
 
Something like a further 31 sites are currently under consideration, ranging from the Dune de Pilat to the Abbaye de Beauport, Cité de Carcassonne, Baie du Mont-Sait-Michel, Gorges du Verdon, Mont Ventoux and many many more.
 

Chaque site membre adhérent du Réseau des Grands Sites de France travaille à améliorer les conditions de protection, de réhabilitation et de gestion active du paysage, à mieux accueillir ses visiteurs, à générer un développement local durable et bénéficiant aux habitants, afin de pouvoir prétendre, dans un délai précis, à l'obtention du label Grand Site dEach of the Great Sites of France are working to improve conditions for the protection, rehabilitation and active management of the landscape, to better accommodate visitors, generate sustainable local development and benefit the people.
 
Having obtained the label, qualification is for a specified period, after which the site is reassessed.
 

Ce label appartient à l'État, qui l'a déposé à l'Institut national de la propriété industrielle en 2003. Il est géré par le Ministère en charge de l'ÉcologieThis label belongs to the state, and is awarded by the National Institute of Industrial Property in 2003. It is managed by the Ministry in charge of Ecology. Il est inscrit au code de l'environnement Art.
 
"Le label Grand site de France peut être attribué par le ministre chargé des sites à un site classé de grande notoriété et de forte fréquentation. L'attribution du label est subordonnée à la mise en oeuvre d'un projet de préservation, de gestion et de mise en valeur du site, répondant aux principes du développement durable. "The label Grand Site de France may be assigned by the Minister to a site listed as high profile and high visitor numbers. Award of the label is subject to the implementation of a project for the preservation, management and enhancement of the site, complying with the principles of sustainable development.
Ce label est attribué, à sa demande, à une collectivité territoriale, un établissement public, un syndicat mixte ou un organisme de gestion regroupant notamment les collectivités territoriales conc
 
This label is granted, upon request, to a local authority, a public institution, a mixed union or management body consisting in particular local authorities concerned. La décision d'attribution fixe la durée du label." The award decision sets the length of the label."  Sorry if some of this is lost in the translation.
 
Ce label est un label sélectif et exigeant.Il est la reconnaissance d'une gestion conforme aux principes du développement durable, conciliant préservation du paysage et de "l'esprit des lieux", qualité de l'accueil du public, participation des habitants et des partenaires à la vie du Grand Site.
 
It is the recognition of management that conforms to the principles of sustainable development, balancing preservation of the landscape and "sense of place" quality of care, public participation of residents and partners in the life of Grand Site.  
Il peut être retiré à tout moment en cas de manquement aux engagements de protection, de mise en valeur, de développement économique local et de respect du
 
It can be removed at any time in the event of breach of commitments for the protection, development, local economic development and respect for the visitor.
Le Réseau des Grands Sites de France rassemble des Grands Sites qui ont déjà obtenu le label et d'autres qui oeuvrent pour l'obtenir un jour.
 
Further information can be obtained from the Grand Site de France website:
 

or there is a Wikipedia site which can easily be translated from French into English, for the less adventurous of you!!





 

Sunday, September 7, 2014


Back with a bit of a travelogue ~


and a preview of what to “look out for!”  


As I mention in the latest blog post from “Roger’s Creative Urge,” my other blog; I seem to have been away for ages, and the reasons in that post – Little Green Men – were, how shall we say, somewhat creative.  In reality, the reason at least in part, has been that now much of the renovation of our French house has been completed, although in recent weeks we seem to have found plenty of “brico” (DIY) to do as my back will confirm, we decided that this year we will make up for lost time and do some long awaited travelling. 

Before we were half way through the year, we had managed two weeks in the caravan in Spain, taking a further week to get there and back. (Look out for ~ Unfinished business and Fly drive and the caravan came too!)  A further week in the caravan in Bordeaux, when we also visited Europe’s highest sand dune (Look out for [ Lof! ] ~ View across La Manche), then two weeks in England during which, Daniel, my son got married to Lisa in a lovely ceremony at The Rococo Gardens in Painswick and to get over this we had a week in Marrakech.

As our guide book for Marrakech says, P. J. Barnum has always claimed that his circus was the “Greatest Show on Earth”, but in fact as we can now confirm categorically, the actual greatest show on earth takes place each night on the square in the middle of Marrakech, Djemma El – Fna, and the surrounding rabbit – warren like multitude of souqs or markets.  (Lof  ~ Ali Baba’s tales!) 
 
We then took the caravan to Brittany in July, for ten days, for a week long post wedding party for some a couple of Victoria’s college friends, and then went on to visit French friends at Pougastel Daoulas, near Brest, for a few days. (Lof at the very least ~ Transported by the mist)  
 
And ... still to come, with who knows what Lof’s may come from these: A surprise invite to a large gîte in the Dordogne, for a “Stroudie” gathering in deepest France, a caravan trip for a few day to Fouras, between La Rochelle and Rochefort (not Roquefort where the cheese comes from!) to catch up again with our friends from Pougastel Daoulas and try to practise our French, if they are not busy practising their English!   Then, a trip to England in October (when we hope to catch up with some of you!) and who knows what the rest of the year will bring? 

We have also had numerous summer visitors who tell us that they are coming to see us, but I can’t help feeling that the wine and the sun might also be something of a pulling point!! (Lof ~ Snore de France and maybe others!)
 
In addition to all this, we have despite me undertaking a fair amount of structured procrastination (Lof ~ The benefits of Procrastinating Positively ~ I’m still “thinking” about whether this should be on the other blog or not!), as I said above, we have fitted in a fair amount of home and garden improvements, perhaps here Lof some before and after photographs.  There’s also our own Clochemerle type controversy, in our case “guerre de parking,” updates on the various skirmishes to follow in due course!
 
Well hopefully, this has wetted the appetite and if nothing else, will spur me on to put fingers to keyboard and bring you the promised Lof’s, and all in all so far not a bad year considering I started the year quite literally singing to the wrong tune!  (Lof ~ I started the year singing to the wrong tune!)

But, I’m forgetting something, or should I say someone, who has just right on cue come and lay down on my foot, no not Linda – as if!!!, but our faithful furry Fergus, or Fergoose as the French call him, as if I would or could forget him.  He’s recently turned one and thinking back has taken a fair amount of our time and energy, which could also explain some of the lack of blog posts.  Suffice to say we wouldn’t now be without him and despite a few quirks, as people keep telling us “You’ve got a goodun there” and although he’ll feature in many of the above Lof’s, look out also for: Van du pain, Still chasing shadows and A tale of two dogs!

So Look out for or Watch this space:

 Bye for now or Á bientot, I’m definitely back amongst you and will probably also find some time to get creative!