Friday, October 29, 2010

Missive 23 ~ The Summer of Our Content

October 2010

Dear All

Hopefully you will find Missive 23 attached. But, oh dear after the mini-ness of the last one this has broken all records and is a truly mega-missive.

However, the covering letter I will keep short and reassure you that the attached missive is at least broken up into plenty of easy to digest pieces.

Also, I guess in part it is therapy, as despite contracts nearly being exchanged on the York house and us being able to think towards the future, we heard a couple of days ago that the prospective buyers have pulled out ............ arrrrrrrrrrrrrgh!!!!

Lucky we love where we’re living, even if it is not our own!

Love

Roger

rogerhiggs@hotmail.co.uk

Mes chers amis

The Summer of Our Content ~ Missive 23

“The Queen of Hearts, she made some tarts, All on a summer day:
The Knave of Hearts, he stole those tarts, And took them quite away!”

Lewis Carroll; author, mathematician, logician, Anglican deacon and photographer.

“True contentment comes with empathy.” Tim Finn; New Zealand Pop star.

I’m all sixes and sevens, after this missive was high jacked by last month’s mini-missive!! And, also as temperatures plummet here in the Vendée, but not quite as much as in the UK, contented summer living seems a long way away, so it will be a case of wracking the recesses of the brain, well trying to make sense of the variously scribbled notes. As I’ve said before, there is a good degree of planning, as well as thought, goes into these idle ramblings – it’s a bit like the Dolly Parton quote “You’d be surprised how much it costs to look this cheap!”

Campsite Capers ~ Holidays and People Watching

I hear you say that life must be one long holiday, and certainly the joie de vie felt when opening the shutters each morning has not diminished, so I would have to concur. But as they say a change is as good as a rest, and certainly the couple of short caravan breaks we have had this year got us away from watering and tending the garden for a little, but also provided some interesting “people watching” along the way! The first four during a heat wave, when staying near Saumur on the Loire the others later on at the end of the summer, down the coast a little from us near to Royan.

It was another “Maud moment!” Many of you will have heard me tell of “Maud” a fictitious character who has manifested herself – in different guises – in several of my writings! She’s a type; be it the sad lonely lady in the bar in Malta with the gold lamé handbag, the strong silent type with the strong thumb many years ago at a French school social or as in this instance – the good woman all but ignored by her other half, even when she delivered his food to the table, and who then reciprocated by doing her own version of looking right through him! - all very different but somehow in each case the name seems to fit!

I christened this “Mr Maud” as Mr Sourpuss, a small man with a very large caravan and enormous four wheel drive, who was pitched the other side of my mum and dad who were pitched next to us. He was together with his slightly oriental looking wife who he never seemed to speak to and who appeared always to walk one step behind him and be constantly at his beck and call, and with a small furry dog who was obviously like it’s owner feeling the heat and unable to cock a leg, let alone lift a finger – or maybe just pain lazy!! I surmised that there real name might have been Martin as the dog was rather grandly called Remy, but certainly not, in my humble opinion, one of the finest of vintages. On the other hand it might simply have been pretentious! The dog spent most of its time sitting on the man’s knee being preened, and certainly received far more attention than the lady in the ensemble, who on second thoughts might have been a paid employee and was certainly expected to be seen and not heard at times watching the man eat at the outside table from behind the plastic strands of the fly screen in the caravan doorway. As you know I’m usually a tolerant sort of fellow, but this rather aloof and stand offish “gentleman” brought out the worst in me not least as when anyone tried to make conversation, including another couple who were staying close by and had obviously been neighbours for some time came to say good bye, as they were on the way back to England, it was all too much for him and more often than not he simply ignored you and looked straight through you as though you weren’t there!! Fortunately, he moved on a couple of days after we arrived, without so much as a wave or a nod, and apart from making sure that Remy was comfortable on his padded back seat bed, did little to help pack up ready for the off. In fact it won’t have surprised me if he had driven off leaving his good lady behind; well he hadn’t acknowledged her the whole time we had been there! The departure fortunate, as the more I was ignored the more incensed I became and the more likely it was that I would say something, if not directly to him, certainly loud enough for him to hear!! A case of people watching at its worst!

An autopsy and birth or two in the pool! Swimming is a great leveller, tall or short, fat or lean, when swimming it doesn’t matter as it is largely your head that shows! “Does my bum look big in this” doesn’t need asking, as long as you can carefully slip into the water making as little fuss as possible, so as not to draw attention to yourself.

Also when swimming people’s inhibitions appear to plunge and you end up making friends, in whom you seem happy to confide your inner most thoughts and feelings, and also seem to think that none of the other swimmers can hear a word you say despite talking in a voice little short of a shout! Perhaps they’re ended up with water in their ears!!

So it was that gently and quietly swimming up and down in the Loire Valley sunshine, I was told in graphic detail all about an older gents arthroscopy and subsequent complications, which were in fact being told to a younger lady who he had only just met who, not to be outdone, was motivated to recount the intimate details of a little operation she had had, and due to the volume of their voices, I didn’t miss a word, even when at the far end of the pool!! But that was nothing, I was then told by a group of young mothers, with their toddlers in tow, all about their various confinements, labour problems (as in birthing rather that working) and their preferred methods of contraception, and they weren’t even in the same pool, they were splashing around, in the baby pool, with the very offspring that had caused them so much grief, that now they wanted foolproof contraception to avoid it happening again!!

Strange noises in the loo! At the same campsite, whilst making a late night call to the loo, I was preceded into the ablution block by two gents who had obviously had something of a skin full and needed to consign some of the excess in the direction of the porcelain! They were talking excessively loudly at such a late hour and this together with an obvious “belching and farting” competition, meant they didn’t hear me slip into one of the nearby cubicles. There followed a long conversation, they obviously had much to get rid of, that rambled around almost incoherently, but kept returning to the same theme, which produced further loud guffaws (from both ends!) every time they mentioned that they had lost count of the number of times one of the females in the company, who was obviously well oiled, had enquired as to whether one of the other men had found his boules yet!!

As they noisily departed, it came as no shock to hear someone in Reception the next morning asking to move – because of their neighbours! At least with neighbours like that we would have been acknowledged, even if we couldn’t get any sleep and if you can’t let your hair down when on holiday - when can you!?!

World Cup! I wasn’t going to mention the World Cup, as I know it’s a long time ago and quite probably, whether wearing my English or French hat, best forgotten, but it does add a multi-cultural element to the people watching and the missive as a whole!

Well, after France and England’s dismal performances I had lost what little interest I had had in the World Cup, but found myself drawn to the loud cheering in the campsite bar, where the final stages of the World Cup were being played out. The big screen rather unhelpfully told me that the match was between PB and Brezil, the latter easily translated possibly accounting for the loud cheering, I thought, until events told me differently. So PB, or as I discovered by a little research Pays-Bas, had me initially flummoxed! But, to put you out of your mystery, unless of course you are initiated, this country is better known to us as Holland or the Netherland (Pays – land and Bas – nether!), and as there were many Dutch visitors on the site, including one very excitable oriental looking Dutchmen and a number of equally lively middle-aged females obviously knowledgeable about the “beautiful game” and who on every Dutch attack jumped up and did a little jig complete with pumping arms, this explained all the excitement! The initial excitement was nothing compared to the first goal when PB went one up against Brazil and the reaction echoed around the campsite. The celebrations were short lived as Brazil soon equalised, so at one all the tension was palpable, and emotions running high, so when with just ten minutes to go, PB took the lead the cheer this time echoed around nearby Saumur and beyond!

What a last ten minutes it was, me doing more people watching than football spectating and finding out into the bargain what “I’m desperate to go to the toilet, but I’m not going at the moment!” is in Dutch. Additionally, I learnt the word for “Rubbish” when the Dutch squandered a chance to go further ahead, as well as some rather colourful language, not for polite company, when the Dutch team fluffed a few breaks and half chances. Then with just a couple of minutes to go, Brazil won a free kick just outside the Dutch box and the two French barmen, who had been harmlessly winding up the Dutch supporters, started very pointedly to remove anything from the bar that could be used as a weapon – bottles, cutlery etc. and took cover under the bar!! Fortunately, the free kick went wide and was quickly followed by the final whistle and much Dutch partying, and I was reminded of those famous Dutch sayings “It hangs upon a silken thread” and “He who waits long enough the world will be his own!!” At least until the next game!

The sun sizzled down into the sea - twice! Amazingly, with all the sky watching I have done I only recall two
previous times when I have seen the setting sun slipping and sizzling into the sea. Both interestingly enough in Cornwall, one at Sennen Cove and the other over the Western Rocks, part of the Isles of Scilly archipelago, viewed from my island paradise – St Agnes – when the children were young enough to humour me, and we listened for the sizzling steam as the hot sun touched the surface of the Atlantic Ocean! Any other time, the promised hiss has been thwarted by a thin band of cloud building up and getting in the way at the crucial time!

But with the beach just a short stone’s throw from our caravan and largely days of unbroken sunshine, even through the hot summer sun was beginning to fade as we were into September, it made for great sunset watching. We were not alone either as each evening after dinner with the things cleared away there was a steady procession of watchers, some armed with chairs, cameras and jumpers at least over the shoulders, as when the sun finally dipped so did the temperature, although we did still have shorts and sandals on and on one of the days I was wearing my swimming costume and had a great time leaping about in the ever increasing breakers as the sun sank slowly out at sea beyond me. After two magical nights where there was barely a ripple, the sea had started to get up and the sun competed with more clouds and on the day I swam with the setting sun, I competed with some really quite large and powerful waves, body boarding and being thrown around completely powerless again the mighty ocean, and on one particular wave, having not quite ventured out far enough, I was mercilessly picked up and deposited on the beach, the wind quite knocked out of me but thankful to avoid the many shingly beds largely made up of empty and broken oyster shells. It was certainly a reminder of how you need to respect the amazing power of the sea and this was on a relatively calm late summer evening!

But, as the pictures I took, quite literally in there hundreds, bear testament that the colours were stunning, different each night and enhanced by the boats, shipping, clouds and bicycles going past! Confused well you’ll have to wait for the posting of some of the pictures on the blog, when all will be revealed!! No, the waves weren’t quite powerful enough to strip me of my cossie, but they had a damn good try! And, yes on two of the nights the sun slid and sizzled down into the sea and it was quiet enough to hear the hiss as it went!!

Is it art!?! It was these rather superb pottery fish that had attracted me initially to the poster and had then persuaded me to seek out the exhibition, which it transpired was in a large well spread out college campus, comprising of a number ,of large deserted terrapin light buildings some for teaching and others used as sleeping accommodation, with the associated canteen, laundry and the like. Deserted save for the one building that housed the exhibition, which also spread out around the grounds, the wonderful fish flying in all directions.

Entering the exhibition, the first thing that struck you was the vast space and the plush interior filled as it happened with a somewhat eclectic if not esoteric collection of largely strange pieces of art. Of the many pieces I was only moved to take photographs of two, apart from those fish swimming around the field, one a glass panel painted with a swirl of many falling people, reminiscent I suppose of wind-blown leaves – well I did tell you it was eclectic!

The other is reproduced here,
but was it art? Well actually no, it was the silhouette of the window frame on the blind pulled down over the window to give some ambience to the gallery. My accompanying critic was heard to think that it was about the most artistic thing around, and I almost found myself agreeing!

Flapping bird! They arrived part way through the afternoon and he had obviously been holding on for some time as on finding the route to his newly acquired pitch, he abandoned his outfit (car and caravan for the uninitiated!) and tried not to appear in too much of a hurry as he hurried off in the direction of the gents! That’s when she started flapping, his wife had got out of the car and whilst looking around for the owner of the vehicle that was preventing them from getting onto their pitch, appeared quite agitated and the lower part of her arms flapped quite simply like a young bird that had fallen from the nest too early and although trying could only flap their wings ineffectively. As she strutted around flapping, I began to wonder if it was in fact her that was desperate for the loo, but didn’t want to leave the outfit in case it got pinched whilst she was away!

But no, on his return he was greeted by renewed flapping and what could easily have been excited squeaking in anticipation of a juicy worm, but was actually squeaks to the effect of “They’re still blocking our way and I’ve no idea who there are or where they have gone and I been flying up and down looking ever since you left!” Further frenzied flapping had me looking around for the other parent with a tasty morsel, but in fact announced the arrival of the offending driver, who without so much as a conciliatory squeak drove off leaving the new arrivals to set up camp. Whilst the man reversed the caravan, to frantic flapping, into the allotted space and proceeded to meticulously set up camp, he was followed, albeit surprisingly silently, around accompanied by much flapping, the intensity increasing when tasks were perceived as being more difficult, such as checking levels or positioning the jack pads (the blocks of wood under the caravan jacks to spread the load and stop the jacks sinking into the ground!).

The flapping continued unabated throughout the setting up, until it all became too much for the lady and she stood dramatically hands on heart, when it also almost became too much for the French couple next door to us, who were obviously also doing some people watching and could barely contain themselves – I certainly didn’t at the moment try and make eye contact!!

This year’s holiday coincidence! We all have them don’t we! Strange and varied coincidences that happen on holiday – meeting someone we know, or someone who comes from the same town, or a group busking, who you subsequently meet again some weeks later when back from holiday busking in your home town, and what is all the more amazing is the frequency with which they happen, rarely does a holiday go by without one!

So it was that we got talking to an Englishman, purporting to be puzzled as to why we have an English car, with a French Plaque, or number plate, and a GB sticker – easy really, living in France when the car insurance needed renewal, meant that we had to re-register it, and the GB sticker has stayed in situ as a subtle pointer that our steering wheel is on the wrong side of the car, at least whilst in France. I say “purporting to be puzzled” because I actually think he thought we were on a scam to avoid UK Road Tax and annual MOT’s, supposedly a growing problem as in France there is no Road Tax and biennial Control Technique’s or MOT’s. We have even been advised to retain proof of our fairly frequent ferry crossing to the UK, in order to prove we are in fact resident in France with just the occasional UK holiday. Who knows perhaps said gentleman actually worked for the DVLA in the UK and was on an undercover mission to trap unsuspecting and unscrupulous holiday makers!

Well, having explained things to him, he was joined by his wife who wanted to know what he was doing, so he had to explain the above conversation, I guess so as not to blow his cover! We then chatted about caravanning in France and, as you may remember from a previous missive or two, how difficult it is to register an English caravan in France. One thing led to another and they said that following an accident some years earlier, when they were unable to take their caravan home, they had put it into storage in the South of France and subsequently found it beneficial for this to become a permanent arrange, the storage facility, each year towing their van to the chosen site, leaving them only a ferry crossing and drive through France with their car. It’s actually a very common arrangement and extremely cost effective.

They then went on to tell us that in order to see different parts of France they had now move the caravan into storage in the Vendée, and what a coincidence that’s where we live!! But no!, that’s not all, it transpires that their caravan is stored with Tom and Eleanor, the Irish farming family whose caravan site we first stayed on when we initially arrived in the Vendée!! What’s more the fact that Eleanor has become pregnant, given birth and now had a 10 month old son, made us realise just how long we have lived in the Vendée, because when we left Tom and Eleanor’s she wasn’t even expecting!

More from “Our patch!”

As you will have gathered from previous missives during the summer, events are plentiful with every commune or village holding a fete or music festival, with not a little good natured rivalry I’m sure! The other amazing thing is in the majority of cases, at least part of the proceedings are gratuity or free!! Here are just two such events.

Music dans la Rue de la Loge You would be forgiven for thinking that with time on our hands we had decided to plan a street party and, as the French have a habit of doing, close the road and party! But no, this Rue de la Loge is in nearby Fontenay le Comte, but does indeed have connections with “our chateau!”

The poster about this event looked enticing and so as we had visitors, friends from Scotland who we hadn’t been able to catch up with for years, a music festival and a stroll around the market and old quarter of the local town seemed a great way to while away a Saturday. Indeed, Fontenay bathed in hot summer sunshine was at its best full of happy contented people going about their weekend chores in the bustling market, and we were even greeted by a bagpipe troupe (not sure of the collective noun for a group of bagpipes!) who were to process down to the music festival, acting quite literally as “pied pipers” to make people head towards the music festival. Booked to start at midday and go on until the early hours of the next day it could have been a long haul, but as our visitors had their twelve year old daughter and ten year old niece with them it was a case of seeing how it went.

Immediately on entering the street it was obvious that there had been an amazing transformation from the rather dreary and run down street I had first discovered over a year previously, whilst wandering to pass the time when Linda was at the Coiffure or Hairdresser. At that point the Rue de la Loge that runs parallel to Fontenay’s main street Rue de la Republic, had certainly lost out in the battle to be top street. In the intervening time, not only was money being injected into restoration project, but also new premises were opening and the street was becoming quite a cultural and alternative area of the town; bars with music, galleries, brocante (antique shops), music shops and the like, quite a rebirth.

We proceeded to spend a very enjoyable couple of hours mingling with the happy crowds, who were being entertained by a variety of folk style acts from a number of different countries, performing at various small stages, no more than a thick sheet of 8 X 4 plywood, and rotating on a carefully planned programme. Arriving at the main focus of the evening performance, the square at the end of the street, an elaborate “meccano-like” stage was still being assembled together with a number of buskers providing entertainment to the throngs of people sitting on the multitude of long trestle tables and benches, owned by the community and always part of French partying.

Over the months we have been here and as we have explored it more, Fontenay has grown on me. It is certainly a very vibrant cultural centre, and on this particular day, for the first time reminded me of Stroud and its various festivals, carnivals and celebrations. It was once more this summer, really rather a contented feeling and the large portion of moules frite (amazingly just 3€50) washed down with a glass of beer helped considerably.

Luçon night This was all the better as we stumbled across it both by default and unexpectedly. By default because we had decided to have a day out at the seaside for Linda’s birthday, but as the weather forecast was, as it happened erroneously, not too good, we decided to go the next day and if we hadn’t we would have miss this “One Night Only” event completely.

Well, setting out in brilliant hot sunshine, we decided to head towards Les Sable-d’Olonne, on the recommendation of Monsieur from the Chateau (there you didn’t think I could go a complete missive without mentioning him!!, but that’s the lot this time, but maybe a book to follow – The Count of .....!!), and a splendid typically French seaside town we found, busy as it was August but fun just to soak up the atmosphere and know we were not a million miles from home and there weren’t in any case the traffic jams of St Tropez and Cannes.

We settled on a “picnic” lunch overlooking the sea and decided to head south towards our normal haunt – La Tranche sur Mer for an early dinner. But with the long hot summer afternoon ahead of us and despite a sea in the languid Atlantic, we got ahead of ourselves and ended up with time on our hands, so decided to head inland and dine somewhere at Luçon, a charming small town that we had visited once or twice before.

Arriving in the town, we were surprised to find the whole of the centre of the town closed, with “Route Barré” signs everywhere and as there was something of a carnival feel to the place, complete with a fairground set up in the main car park, felt it safe to investigate. What we found was that there were three free stages being set up for an evening of live music and a real buzz about the place. Having wandered for a while we settled on a hotel restaurant, well it was Linda’s birthday treat and had the fixed menu; three delicious courses for 17€, vin et café compris!

Then it was out to see how the setting up was going and we were just in time to see the start of a fantastic, professional and very energetic group called Mélisse, who were quite simply superb, playing a wide range of material including many rock standards and looking as though they were enjoying every minute of their set that just seemed to go on and on, with little in the way of introductions between the songs. After over on hour we felt we had to drag ourselves away and go and see what the other stages had to offer, but they would have been hard pushed to better Mélisse.

The second stage we encountered, a smaller more intimate affair had a group called La Marguise we recognised as being at one of the other tables in our restaurant, and consisted of three young men and a slightly older lead singer, who were all giving their all and although not at first seeming as professional as the first group, were actually very accomplished at what they did best – protest songs and I re-christened them “The Angry Young Men – with a smile! As they were obviously thoroughly enjoying themselves, despite having been on stage for what must have been over an hour and a half of high octane dissent!! When they finished we wandered up the road to stage three to be confronted by the local high school band – average age 16, with a much younger lead singer. Called Sex Fesst, as I guess would seem appropriate at 16, they were not at accomplished as the others but obviously had a large following and would certainly be one to watch in the future!! They were having some sound problems but when they sorted them out, they belted out a great “final” encore, although I think their groupies had other ideas and we left them to it and went back to Mélisse, who we could just hear were still performing, between the songs of Sex Feest!

Back at the main stage, Mélisse were indeed continuing unabated and didn’t even seem to have had a break. By the time they finished it was gone midnight and they had been on stage, performing brilliantly for at least three hours. We drove the few miles home buzzing, after what had been an amazing and unexpected end to a great day, and the music festival was gratuit or indeed free!!

Visitor Numbers

The visitor count for this year is down a little on last year, perhaps the novelty has worn off I hear you say, but no all those visitors who came last year have, where circumstances allowed, returned this year. Last year’s numbers were also up a little because we had our annual “Family Weekend” at Chez ‘iggs, which meant not only a large influx of visitors, but also several repeat offenders!! In real terms we had 20 individuals visit us last year, some as I said more than once, and this year to date we have had 22 individuals, with two more to come – Daniel and Lisa have finally managed to find some time and are spending Christmas with us; flying out and then hitching a lift back just after Christmas, in time for our traditional seeing in of the New Year in York.

Of this year’s visitors, at the moment by the end of the year, 8 will be first-timers but that’s not to say that it’s not too late to get yourselves in the Visitor Book and have a stone added to the Visitor Cairn, Autumn is lovely in the Vendée, indeed we have just sat outside in warm sunshine having our lunch, although the nights are closing in and becoming colder. Although flights become less during the winter months, they do still fly from Stanstead to La Rochelle, with some great offers if you book early, or there are some great ferry offers for short breaks or on the Dover – Calais route, which although a good drive from us, could see you meandering through Northern France, soaking up the sights for a couple of reasonably leisurely days on the way here and back, making for a great out of season break!!

Blanket of Night or “Dog’s bark changing to a howl in response to the owl?”
Thoughts from a balmy, or should that be barmy evening at the very end of July!!:

Night falling like a blanket, as the blanket gets heavier
The night becomes darker,
And the different layers of stars become “uncovered!”
With the darkness come the sounds and sights of the night –
A loudly croaking frog on the edge of the water trough,
Doing its best to drown out the other sounds.
The dog barking at the end of the road, urgent and incessant.
The water cannon, cutting through the field edge trees
As it waters the riot of maize in the distant field.
Far distant drone of a lone vehicle,
Blocked by the harsh hoot of our neighbourhood owl.
The flapping of the bats in the still of the night,
Hopefully keeping the “biters” at bay!
The strange and ceaseless unidentified squeak from the flower border.
On the table the flickering citronella candle,
Losing the battle to keep the high pitched whining “mossies” at bay.
Low rumbling of a far-away aircraft, high in the darkening night sky.
Something rustling over the wall in the fallen leaves
Of the chateau garden, and not yet August, but autumn on the way.
The nearby mooing of a cow causing, or coinciding with,
The jump of the frog into the water.
The metallic clacking of the cockchafer beetle
Drawn relentlessly to the shade of the outside light.
Dog’s bark changing to a howl in response to the owl?
Drawn back to the stars, as the settling blanket uncovers
The “plough-handle” and the North Star, before
The light dips to reveal Ursa Major, that Great Bear in the sky.
That dog would annoy me if I lived closer, far more intrusive
Than the quiet drones of the remote car and noisy aeroplane.
Shimmer of the candle on the side of the house,
Further flickering of moths in the candlelight.
Clicking of the cooling down sides of the caravan.
Further rustling in the border, Shouting at a distant party with music pulsing
Seemingly in time with the relentlessly marching water cannon.
But, I’m off in as the candles and bats don’t seem to be doing their jobs
And the blighters have started to get me!!

“Ici devant nous!”

The “ditch food” has once again this year been plentiful, as I believe it has in the UK, and we have found supplies of apples, pears, chestnuts and blackberries to date. It was whilst picking blackberries close to the nearby village of St Cyrs de Gâts, which I came across a fearful looking beast, on the lookout and guarding its particular part of the hedgerow.

At first I thought it was a large hornet, quite common in these parts and when we first arrived we were warned to check when taking in the washing that there wasn’t one trapped amongst it. The consequences of slipping on a pair of freshly laundered underpants and ..... ouch!!, it doesn’t bear thinking about!! But, back to the beast, having realised it was not a hornet but a large spider doing a very good impersonation! Indeed, research told me this was a Argiope bruennichii, simply called Argiope in France but commonly known as a Wasp Spider in England, where it can be found very rarely in the south. It is a spider that makes an orb web, with a very noticeable thick zig zag pattern under the entrance, that gives it another common name of Writing Spider (of Charlotte’ Web fame for the teachers amongst you!). The purpose of this “writing,” web decoration or stabilimentum to give it its proper name, is unclear but may serve to attract insects or as the webs are rarely more than a metre off the ground, be a warning sign to prevent the web’s destruction by animals walking into it.

As is the case with spiders the female is much larger than the male, in this case by as much as 5 or more times, with the male coming in at 3 – 8 mm and the female 25 mm, so not providing much of a meal after doing the business!! However it seems, as is often the case in our part of the world, the female that I had spotted came in larger than the normal maximum, a good 30mm or more! A common question is “do they bite!” to which, in this case is yes possibly if grabbed, although they are regarded as harmless to humans and won’t attack. But further research tells me that their venom is a “library of polyamine toxins with potential as therapeutic medical agents” However, I didn’t feel the need to go back to check!!

And, just to prove that life here is a bit like an ongoing Nature Watch, I’ve just been disturbed by a commotion outside the back window and on investigating it, there not more than four metres from me a large buzzard had come cautiously but noisily to ground, obviously having just caught some prey, which the long grass was hiding from me. After a couple of minutes, during which time I was able to quietly call Linda in from the other room for her to see, and when it was sure the coast was clear, it lifted of carrying its prey, in order to dine in a safer place. This afternoon, the unfortunate meal turned out to be a green woodpecker!

My original “thought!”

What does my scribbled note, attributed to a good friend (name to follow!!) who visited in the summer, mean? When visiting Ile de Ré, Dorothy, when in the back seat of our car, was heard to say “I’m not stroking your bottom, I’m just holding your thingy!!!” Just goes to show what a exciting and fun summer we have had, as the above hopefully testifies! Thinking back, long and hard, I don’t think I’ve ever heard it called that before – that’s the catch for the seat belt, before you ask!!

Kind regards, Best Wishes and Love, Roger and Linda

P.S. The jam tarts et al. (see the top) weren’t half bad as well, the kitchen working overtime during the busy summer season!

And, maybe to come next time? Quite simply this time “Who knows what tomorrow brings!” and as the nights draw in and the weather turns cooler, what adventures lie ahead! But whatever, the title will come from Dr Seuss’ little book – “Did I ever tell you how lucky you are!”

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Mini Missive 22 - Time is once more my master - albeit briefly!

September 2010

Dear All

No time to chat, but as Vicky’s Updates have finished lots of spare time to read this missive!!

Hopefully, you will find Missive 22 attached which explains all!!

Love

Roger

rogerhiggs@hotmail.co.uk

Mes chers amis

Time is once again my master ~ albeit briefly!! Mini Missive 22

“To choose time is to save time!”
Francis Bacon – oh no it’s him again! More about him to follow in the future!!

“Time spent laughing is time spent with the Gods.”
A rather apt Japanese proverb as we are spending time catching up with family and friends!

The bare bones of the full unexpurgated version of this missive was there, just not the time to meet the “end of the month deadline,” with visits here there and everywhere, the odd DIY project (helping to tile some of Daniel and Lisa’s kitchen) and the odd Pet Shop delivery to make. Yes, we’re back in York, and due to major problems with the car (thankfully being sorted out by Linda’s nephew who is a master mechanic and comes cheaper than Vauxhall!!) we are staying longer than originally planned. This together with dental work, for us both, that is to be done back in Stroud next week, it’s proving to be an expensive visit back to “dear old blighty!” So, with all this activity this month’s missive is to be really no more than a brief (relatively!!) diary entry!

Our first few days lulled us into a false sense of security, as the warm Vendée sunshine followed us over La Manche, but now the weather that we try to forget about and the French regularly talk about, has caught up with us and it’s cold, wet, windy and miserable. People often ask us what we miss about England, funnily enough the weather rarely features in our short list: family, friends, beer and bacon!! But, it’s good to be back and catch up with people particularly Victoria who as readers of her “China Update’s” will know has returned from her Far Eastern ventures and as always has much to say, now a good deal of it in Mandarin Chinese!! We had also seen even less of Daniel and Lisa during this time, as he’s too busy to Skype, usually occasionally telephoning instead!

Debris in the road

We had largely a good journey back, leaving as we often do in the wee small hours, to get to the early morning ferry – this time from Roscoff to Plymouth, an expensive crossing but as we were heading towards Plymouth and our reunion with Victoria, it saved lots of miles, petrol and more importantly time! We did however, again, manage to hit some debris in the road – this time a large remould tyre that had come off a lorry, which although fortunately not causing an accident did manage to bring an engine management light on and subsequently require a new exhaust heat sensor, quick to fit but a snip at £106!!!

It was slightly strange, as we hadn’t seen Victoria for nearly 7 months, but due to Skype technology had actually “seen” more of her via webcam during the preceding months than we would normally do when she is in England, so the we were not totally surprised to find she had lost some weight, but it was good to give her a hug, something that computer technology hasn’t yet perfected!!

Victoria had planned to meet us off the ferry, but had discovered on her return that her course had started for real on the induction day, which was not a one off as she had thought, so barely had she landed back in the UK before she was once more embarking on the next college journey. But after a hasty scrabble to get her pre-course work completed she is now sailing along well and looking forward to her first placement in a Plymstock school that she has already visited twice before, when doing presentations in her role as Projects Abroad Plymouth Rep!

A good couple of days with Dermot and Victoria, including a delicious Chinese banquet she prepared using recipes and skills taught to her by Bee, her Chinese teacher when she was in Weinan, and shopping for essentials; Fairy Liquid, Shower Gel, Disinfectant Spray, Paracetamol, Spices, Bras and much more from greatly missed emporiums such as, Wilkinsons, The Range, and Primark!! Basically, some things just aren’t available or don’t come cheap in France, much to the amusement of customs on our way home!! Then we headed up to Gloucestershire for the first “Vendée Vintner” drop off!! Visitors who have flown in during the summer have taken advantage of us having a nearly empty car for our holiday in the UK, so much so that the nearly empty car became a nearly full car!!

Further pieces on the route

Not, I must hastily add, suggesting any of the following to be debris, just the flotsam and jetsam of life’s rich flow – not sure it that’s much better!! Next stop was my Mum and Dad’s to unload much of the car and a brief cup of tea, then over to Stroud to see Daniel and Lisa and to check out the tiling job and having told them that tiling was really easy, perhaps we hadn’t banked on 10 centimetre square tiles with random wiggly edges, which at the corners completely threw out the spacers, thus rendering them impossible to use!

The next day coffee in Mill’s Café, our favourite in Stroud, to meet up with various friends and to surprise others who chanced upon us, surprised as they thought we were still in France – it’s difficult to let everyone know our plans and where we will be when, not least because we’re not always sure!! But if we were lucky enough to bump into you, it was great to catch up on all the news!

Tiling was on the agenda for the following day and the one after if needed, fitted in around a luncheon invite with more friends and further talking and news gleaning!

Dental appointments also featured somewhere along the line, which necessitated further “second mortgage applications!!” And, with the tiles and grout successfully completed, (were filling teeth so easy you could DIY!) and we were once more on the road, heading north this time with York and Linda’s family firmly in our sights.

Arriving safely, the car was condemned largely due to a damaged tyre – a small nick obviously caused by hitting the debris and we were into the next round of catching up with everyone’s news, whilst suffering from increasing shock as the bill for the car grew at an alarming rate!! It also meant that we had to extend our stay to allow what was a long job to be completed, before the long journey south. But, it did give us even more time to see people, shop for life’s essentials in the form of more spices that we hadn’t managed to get before and as some of the family were off to the Norfolk Broads a few days after we arrived, a chance to reacquaint myself with the Pet Shop boys. This involved a few transactions, help lugging out the hutches and bird tables that are each day displayed outside the shop, a bit of sweeping and mopping at the end of the day, as well as just a few deliveries – although not a gender realignment or deaf old lady in sight. I was however, met at one house in the middle of the afternoon by a young lady in bedroom attire, but before you jump to any assumptions, she was wearing thick fleecy pyjamas and a thick tightly fastened fleecy dressing gown – would it have been different for the regular delivery boy I found myself wondering!!!

In order to make the end of month deadline, that’s it for now, but we still have a couple of weeks of our visit left, so who knows what adventures are ahead!!

Shakespeare

Mention of the great bard and Francis Bacon in the same missive is not unplanned, much thought and preparation go into these humble offerings!! Much as it might seem like these literary ramblings gems are thrown together, this summer both the aforementioned have featured largely as well as coincidentally, in our lives, but for the full explanation, you will have to wait for the next missive (see below), or if you can’t wait and want a flavour visit Wikipedia and type in Francis Bacon, or if you want the whole meal, follow the many and varied leads and links, but be prepared, if you like tales of mystery and intrigue, to get hooked.

Just however, time and space to record the latest of many such coincidences. In York yesterday, passing “The Works” we were inexplicably drawn into the shop, only to find the first book I saw was a copy of Bill Byson’s “Shakespeare.” Obviously, another sign and yet another piece of an ever increasing jigsaw!!

People

Along the way you are forever meeting all kinds of people, but we seem to have an uncanny knack of attracting interesting characters, be it M. from the chateau (lots more about him next time – by popular request!!) or the, am I allowed to say “oddball?” who struck up a conversation with us at the bus stop yesterday! Her opening line was something to do with how the world was “full of sucking (sic) people of all sorts, some sucking drug takers and the like!” She went on to say that all such sucking people should be allowed on the bus and only those people who sucking smell horrible should be made to get off the bus. Her philosophy of life then continued along the lines of unless you were fortunate enough to be a private car owner and could therefore choose who to travel with, you should accept that people are all different and put up with sharing the bus with all sorts, unless of course they smell! Our wholehearted agreement was unfortunately stretched as; when we got on the bus we choose to sit some distance from her!! I then thought that perhaps her “sucking monologues,” seemingly for the benefit of anyone who would listen, had probably got her thrown off the last bus and the injustice of it, for as far as I could tell she didn’t smell! Despite not sitting next to her, my thoughts were far more charitable than those of my travelling partner who suggested that she had possibly just been thrown out of a mental institution (here we probably have to blame the present coalition government for another hatchet job!). I couldn’t help feeling that for whatever reason, for her life obviously sucks!

My original “thought!”

Unfortunately, my rather ancient mobile phone has succumbed to age and started to function erratically, just like its owner I hear you all think and I say before you can!!! So in order to stay in touch with all my many followers!!!, a new and cheap phone was needed. Tescos came to the rescue, helped by staff discount, and I now have a new £19 phone, which a few days before had been sold for £14!! Apart from the possible ethical issues, how can a small slim line phone have the following “key features:” MP3 player, FM Radio, Camera, video recording, long life battery mobile tracker, SOS message and Bluetooth as well as operate as a phone and be produced for so little? Mind you it nearly went back, as I got to the last of 20 preset ringtones before I found one I could live with!! But then a younger, more technologically minded, family member told me I could always Bluetooth any number of other ringtones!! I fancy Frank Sinatra’s “My Way,” but think it will only happen if someone else does it their way!!

But one quick final thought, not attributable to me, but rather someone unknown! “We are too busy mopping the floor to turn off the faucet!”

Kind regards, Best Wishes and Love,

Roger and Linda


And maybe to come next time? Hopefully I’ll be back on track with “The Summer of Content” maybe including such gems as “The Bard – Is this a ghost I see before me!” “Sizzling sun at Royan” and “Further Soggy Adventures!” if we’ve dried out by then!!

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Missive 21 ~ More of "The Chronicle."

August 2010

Dear All

Hopefully you will find Missive 21 attached, just in time for the end of the month, campsite technology permitting!?! We are currently having a few days away in the newly registered caravan, using up some camping cheques we had when we first came to France, so I’m relying on the campsite Wee Fee (or Wi Fi to the rest of you), again the wonders of modern technology!

We are staying on a site very close to the beach just south of Royan, at the mouth of the Gironde estuary. We are going home on Saturday, then have about 10 days before we return to England on the 15th September for about a month. Hopefully we will catch up with lots of you then, although we are as always flying “here, there and everywhere” around the country visiting family and friends. As things stand we are around Stroud the weekend of 18th September and maybe a couple of days later in the visit so may see some of you then.

It’s the jam / chutney making in earnest season at the moment, and we are rapidly running out of jars again. If we are likely to see you during our visit – ALL JAM JARS GRATEFULLY RECEIVED!!!

Love

Roger

rogerhiggs@hotmail.co.uk

Mes chers amis

More of “The Chronicle” ~ Missive 21

“There is a terrible English word, ‘sensible. I cannot bear this ‘sensible,’ it has nothing to do with the senses.”
Said by a Spanish Lover in Joanna Trollop’s book of the same name.

“It’s time to start living the life you’ve imagined.” Henry James.

To pick up briefly on the theme of “Finding the Higgs” (Missive 19), I have since we moved here sent our many visitors simplified routes of how to find us in the back of beyond. On all of these I tend to go by the names of the next destination and where I use road numbers issue a “public service announcement” suggesting that the road number may have a different letter prefixing it or be totally different to what appears on the map or the number I suggest!!. Indeed, the French road numbering system remains to me, and many others, another of France’s mysteries (see below). But read on – finding us couldn’t be easier!!

It was therefore no surprise to find the following line in an article in The French Paper, a relatively new and rather interesting English language newspaper: “French road numbering is unsystematic and can be very confusing (!)” But the same article goes on to explain “E” numbers, not those in processed food that have in some cases the reputation of sending children totally doolally!!, but rather the United Nations international E – road network.

Basically, if you are trying to get to us from the SW:

• Pick up the E 05 at Oxford and turn right at Poitier, or
• If coming from the N / NE pick up the E 15 somewhere between Newcastle and London, take the E 402 at Calais to Rouen and pick up the E 05 and follow the instructions above.

With either, should you arrive at Algeciras, on the South coast of Spain, you missed the turning at Poitier!!

Or if you’re feeling very adventurous – mind you you’ll have to be very quick to find a Higgs, she’s back at the weekend in the UK!!, you can take an “E” road to China, which reminds me of that well-known Yorkshire saying – Ee by gum!! But enough frivolity, before her indoors starts to tell me I’m rambling – as if!!!

We’re back this missive looking at The Chronicle and picking up on some of the themes mentioned last time and here again to remind you:

Writings / Poems / House / Garden / Menus / Postcards – Letters / Projects / New Words / Flowers and Trees / Animals and Birds / Sketches / Descriptions / Planting advice / People / Food / Miscellaneous ~ not forgetting a section on St Laurent, that was added later.

New Words

The plan here was to really learn French, and despite certainly only being a little nearer to being able to hold a conversation, we did this evening talk to Mickaël the local farmer about his recent holiday and discovered that he had visited Limonsin, where it was very hilly, very beautiful, thickly wooded and green, and he had had a good time fishing amongst other things! We were also able to tell him that we are about to go away for five nights in the caravan a little way down the coast at Royan, then coming back for ten days or so, before returning to England for about a month. This is slightly longer than intended, but we need to fit in seeing Victoria on her return from China, my Mum and Dad, Linda’s family in York, a trip to Stroud (Daniel and Lisa and anyone else), a family gathering one weekend, a conference another and one or two people and places in between! So it’s a bit of a case of “ici, la et partout!” Perhaps some of the words are rubbing off and we are getting a little better!! Then, earlier today we met a very chatty French couple who moved into St Laurent at about the same time as we did and who always pass the time of day if we bump into each other. They speak no English but we managed to say that Linda was going home to make jam in the jars we had just bought and I joked that I was going to sit down with a coffee and watch. I went on to say that I was going to be in the garden in the hot sunshine and realising that they might think I was going to sunbathe, managed to make sure they realised it was to work in the garden – something that they can relate to as they have a fantastic show of flowers in their garden.

So, although perhaps we are not dreaming in French, apparently a sure sign that you’ve finally got it, we are at least beginning to get there!!

Then, there have been the “Clever Words” series in the last few missives, featuring some of my collection of quotes and sayings that I am constantly adding to, as I have discovered does Monsieur (M.) from the chateau, who when he discovered this said to me “But, you and I are like twins!!” (it was the second or third coincidence of our conversation!), but I pointed out that he in fact lives in the big house and I live in the small one at the end of the drive, not now, but previously the servant’s quarters! Talking about M. brings me neatly to another somewhat strange learning of new words!

M. popped around the other day firstly to invite us out to lunch, and knowing about my photographic exploits, to ask if I would be able to take some photographs of some of his family portraits that hang in the chateau, in order for him to email them to a cousin who is compiling a family history. Some hours later, and a couple of cups of coffee, as seems to be the case when we chat, I returned home downloaded the photographs from my camera, where necessary “fixed” them by cropping or manipulating the exposure / colour and sent them to M. by email. I thought I should explain what I had done and why there were two of some of the pictures and not others, but was a little concerned that although his spoken English is excellent, his reading of English might not be, so decided to use a translation site to translate my message into Spanish, M’s chosen language despite him being a Frenchman!! There followed a number of exchanges in English and Spanish about these and some subsequent photographs, and suddenly it dawned on me, that having come to France to learn French, I was now conversing with a Frenchman in Spanish!!! Now whenever he sees me, apart from flinging his arms in the air and shouting “Olé Olé Olé” he spouts forth whole streams of Spanish as though miraculously I have become fluent overnight!! But, and it’s a large but, I can now visit a Spanish disco and confidently ask the DJ for one of my favourite songs by Chris de Burgh ~ la señora en rojo! Aarrh, sounds so much more seductive and evocative than simply: Lady in Red!!!

Almost as bizarrely one of our recent guests added considerably to my knowledge of the Australian language. Some years ago my children’s Secondary Headteacher (I shall name no names!) who had worked for some time in Australia, told me that whilst there, she had spent much of her time wearing rubber thongs!! I was mightily relieved that she didn’t say “only wearing” and even more relieved to find that the “garment” was not what I had immediately thought, but rather the very practical and obvious Australian name for flip – flops, interestingly often called thongs now in France!! Then, a recent visitor, who will also remain nameless, but interestingly another Headteacher, Primary this time and due to retire at Christmas (you and no doubt many others know who you are!!) asked me if I knew what the Australians call Speedos swimming trunks. Having to admit that I didn’t, and slightly alerted by my previous knowledge of the language, I wasn’t surprised when he informed me that they call them “budgie smugglers!!” Several times during his visit he was heard to mutter with a giggle “budgie smugglers!!,” (perhaps it’s for the best that he’s retiring!!) until his wife, obviously getting tired of hearing the term, said she didn’t know why he kept saying this as he didn’t have much of a budgie for his Speedos!! - what a put down, but he didn’t say it again!!

Our patch “St Laurent” and not so far away!

Our patch! : Games afternoon / Presentation ~ We have basically said that wherever possible we will attend village functions and show our faces and try to talk to some of the longer standing St Laurentians. So it was that we attended this social afternoon on a recent Bank Holiday and also our new English friends who live just around the corner had entered and won the best garden prize for an old house and we felt we should support them.

So it was that we arrived at the designated time, shook hands with a lot of people as is customary in France, watched M. le Maire and his friends playing a local game called Palette, where you throw small metal discs at a target lain out on the ground, trying to work out the rules which weren’t as simple as we first thought! When it became obvious that we were not going to be invited to join in, we joined the women and children inside playing board games (at one point I was the sole man!!) and played a game of Triominoes (three sided dominoes) with a group of older women, one of whom we had met before and who obviously felt that she knew us well, as she took great delight in correcting one of her cronies about where we lived!!

Then it was into the hall for a “verre amité” – a glass of friendship – and huge slices of one of the local specialities, brioche, a rich soft buttery bread! Then the prize winners were presented with lovely pot plants together with much merriment. A good time was had by all, and with seemingly little regard for the drive home!!

Ploughing match ~ This took place on the same day as one of the events below, but as it was local as I said above, we put in an appearance. The event was an all day affair, with novices in the morning, lunch and drinks for the competitors and the main event scheduled for 14.30, at which time we dutifully arrived. Having been here in France as long as we have, we should have known better, as lunch was still well and truly underway, and other than a fairly impressive line of about 15 enormous tractors, varying in age but all supporting a mammoth seven furrow reversible plough shaft, we were the only spectators who had arrived and stood around trying to look both knowledgeable, nonchalant and inconspicuous! Well, over half an hour later there was a flurry of excitement, as the competitors (average age about 16 who hopefully hadn’t been partaking!), leapt into the waiting tractors, started them with a roar and with a total disregard for health and safety zoomed off to predetermined stations dotted around the field, their large shiny and heavy ploughs waving precariously behind them and at times rather close to the now thronging masses who had either now finished lunch or had read 15.30, for the publicised 14.30, due to previous experience!!

That was as exciting as it got, as when in position, very much in their own time, the competitors spent some time measuring, marking up and psyching up, excruciatingly slowly did a marker strip up and down, before doing more measuring and waiting for the judges to mark the first bits!! Despite a small beer, the lack of excitement was just too much and we decided to call it a day and visit pastures new, in the hope of some exhilaration! To this day we don’t know who won, but as we left we noticed that there were so many trophies that everyone would appear able to win something, even if as a spectator sport is was akin to watching paint dry!! I also mused about how the enormous tractors would get home that night as the competitors were too young to drive them on the road and their “co-drivers” seemingly in most cases parents, there to advice, help with the measuring, cast knowing looks and unsuccessfully hide disappointment due to their body language, had spent lunchtime and the periods of time between each round of judging propping up the bar!

Not so far away! : Fête de le Blé et la Terre ~ Having left the paint drying, we went off in search of excitement and it might seem incredible, but we found it amongst the sheaves and ears of the Wheat and Soil Fete! This took place in the next village to ours and as we had passed through the village over the previous few weeks the activity had been promising as signs appeared first, then a collection of old farm implements, then staging, fencing and all the trappings of excitement!!

And indeed as I said, when we arrived there was excitement aplenty, with the throngs of people being entertained by a large band of “enthusiasts” dressed as old (as in times gone by!) farmers, although in the case of the man who appeared to be the “main man,” obviously an old retired farmer. He appeared to own much of the vintage equipment both on static display and at work, as he spent the whole time walking proudly around, big smile on his weather beaten face, or overseeing the various demonstrations of the old farming equipment, at least on one occasion with a glass of wine in his hand. The displays and demonstrations were impressive, not least as they traced the journey of wheat from the ploughing and sowing to harvesting and threshing using a variety of old-fashioned machines, with a total disregard for health and safety – large unguarded fly wheels flying, belts spinning at alarming speed, large prongs forking up the straw in close proximity to people’s heads and fingers close to the hoppers feeding in the stalks of grain. You’ve got the idea – unadulterated fun and not a safety garment in sight.

We were having so much fun and it was a lovely warm evening, that we stayed quite simply till the party was over, the evening entertainment being a concert of Vendée based up and coming or semi-professional acts, who by and large were very entertaining and usually reached the high notes. Two performers however, stood out from the rest a lady singer with her own fan club (her teenage son shouting the loudest!) and a quite simply breath-taking piano accordion player, not a dry eye in the house, who can’t have been older than fourteen!!! He had the place in uproar and almost silenced the compere, who certainly liked the sound of his own voice!!

But, the entertainment also continued on the field away from the stage, as it seemed that the only way out for all the exhibits, including a couple of very large cows, was between all the stalls and finally, with a sharp turn between the bar and the arena around the stage, so as “electric” accordion playing and Edith Piaf songs warbled from the stage large tractors and trailers, steam engines and more did battle with the crowds and the low slung electricity cables on their way home after a highly successful and thoroughly entertaining day!! More than made up for the après home decorating experience of earlier in the day!!

Music dans la Rue de la Loge & Luçon night will have to come next time as time and space are running out rapidly!

People

As I said before obviously one person, a certain Monsieur, has featured a lot in previous missives and I can’t let a recent encounter go unrecorded! A couple of days previously he had told us that the egrets had returned and were “hanging like grapes” from the trees at the far side of the largest of his three lakes, and he thought they would make a great photograph. He even said he had thought about phoning to tell us, but didn’t like to disturb us!

So the next morning I suggested to Linda we went to see if they were there, as the sun was in the best position for a good photograph. As we set off out of our yard, we met Monsieur who had ventured out to check his post box, which is on the post on the other side of the road, underneath ours and both underneath a large old oak tree. He was wearing a garment that I had noticed him wearing recently, particularly as on one or two mornings there has been a definite autumnal chill to the air – a black hoodie!! After chatting for a few minutes, we told him where we were going and he asked if we would mind if he walked with us, so we set off down the road to enter the park by the back gate as we usually do when M. is in residence. By now the sun was creeping up in the sky and warming up, so M. put up the hood to keep the sun off his head, as he has even less hair than I do!!

As many of our conversations revolve around scoundrels and rogues, I thought it opportune to tell him that dressed as he was he would be refused entry into many shops in the UK as hoodies are associated with young “ner do wells!” Appreciating the joke he was still a little puzzled as to the implications, but I suppose that France has just banned the burka, so the French are not adverse to a bit of “clothing control!” We continued around the corner and despite entering the shadow of the trees, M. continued to walk with his hood up! As we crossed the end of the area that he calls his flower meadow, we spotted an empty beer bottle, where no beer bottle had been a few days previously and some way inside M. private property.

M. was concerned that it meant someone who shouldn’t have been, had been into the park and conversation turned once more to how he would like live CCTV whilst living in Spain to keep an eye on the place. Then, he decided to pick up the bottle to take it home for recycled and proceeded to carry it in a fashion that looked as though he was about to take a swig!! I told him that this made him look even more like a scoundrel or a rogue, and quick as a flash he retorted that didn’t we realise he led a double life (the irony being that on several fronts this is actually true!!), sometimes the respectable Count living graciously in the Chateau, but at other times he led an altogether darker more sinister life of drink and debauchery, and this from someone who had told us they didn’t drink!! (But here we were to discover there really was another side, involving drink if not the debauchery!! But that’s another story!!) He then carried the bottle like that all the way on our walk back up passed the Chateau, where he put the bottle down by the inner gates, the hood now down, the charming immaculately mannered Count had returned and as such must escort his such amiable charming English companions out through the main gates after so delightful a walk!!

Food

Or I suppose this should be Food Map, an “offshoot project” (see I can still put out the jargon!!) based on food but feeding into the kitchen initially at least!! In my many wanderings, be it a stroll around the park after supper or a more serious twelve miler, I am forever coming across food growing wild in the hedgerow, in the woods or wherever. So it seemed logical to make a note of where the best finds could be had, particularly as on one occasion we collected some very second rate sweet chestnuts before I stumbled across a sunken lane that seemed to be sinking even more under the thick carpet of nuts that covered the track – so much so that poor Max had real problems negotiating a pain-free path! But, these gleanings were fantastic and I improvised a bulk chestnut roaster as we had so many. So in the next month or two, when this year’s chestnuts are ready, this lane will be our first port of call hoping that “lighting strikes twice!!”

Now the list of ditch food, as we have started to call it, has grown to epic proportions. My mother phoned one night in the middle of our tea and wondered what we were having, when I said ditch apple pie, she said what’s that and a new term was hatched! Indeed, now each of the sites is being added to a map so we know where to go as each item comes into season, hoping this year they are as good as last!!. Now often the “treasures” that I bring home are of an edible variety!!

“Ici devant nous!”

Jumping frogs “ain’t got nothing” when it comes to the jumping stakes, a mere 25 times their body length just paled into insignificance!! Walking over to the garden a few days ago, a small something leapt into the air and travelled an amazing distance before coming down to earth. Closer inspection revealed it to be a light green / brown coloured cricket / grasshopper like creature about 3 cm long. And then a quick measure of the jump came out at 2 ½ metres or 250 cm, which a quick calculation will tell you is 83 times the creatures own body length, or to go back to the analogy of the last missive and the now less than springy frog, like a 1.8 m person jumping about 150 metres – now that would be impressive and rewrite the Olympic record books, and make the drug test team twitchy!!!

But keeping on the jumping theme, how do you get a large black dog (Tottoon) to jump vertically three feet into the air!?! The answer is quite simply sent her off down the path in front, so that it is her that stands on the four foot plus black and vivid yellow snake that just happens to be basking in the late summer sunshine. Having jumped high into the air, a quick glance and a tentative sniff persuaded her that it was best left alone. Alerted, we crept forward and were surprised that the offending creative had stuck its ground and was in no hurry to go anywhere. Some quick and rather cautious photographs; how very useful telephoto lenses can be!!, and we made a large detour as the snake hurriedly slithered off into the undergrowth and we hurried off to look up this close encounter, partly out of interest, but also to be sure that we didn’t have to rush Tottoon off to the local vet, as we were looking after her that day!

As always the wonder of modern technology, in this case the internet, came up trumps and identified the snake as a Western Whip snake, not venomous but capable of giving a nasty bite and prone to be aggressive!! Even more thanks for telephoto lenses!! We also discovered that you tell if a snake is venomous by the shape of its eye; a round pupil means non-venomous and a slitty eye you have to watch out for! Well something to get someone else to check out for you, or again put the telephoto to good use!! When we discovered this piece of information Linda said well I could clearly see the eye was round – me? I wasn’t taking any chances and certainly wasn’t going to make a habit of staring a snake in the eyes to check, particularly as someone recently told me that being bitten by a grass snake, rather plentiful in these ‘ere parts, is about as painful as two wasp stings – ouch!!!

My original “thought!”

The French Mysteries I posed in Missive 16 have been solved!! Well, at least one and two halves of the seven I presented you with!! I make that 28.6% or nearly a third success rate, (plus temps sur mon mains and it’s good to keep the brain active!!) and not bad to start with!!

French Wood piles: Perhaps the most boring explanation and only part of the answer, is that in some cases the piles are owned by people who sell it on to the many people who are installing wood burners to beat the high price of oil, as is the case with the local farmer!! I have also decided that there is something of a status symbol in having a large neatly stacked pile of firewood – neatness as well as size does seem to be important!! Also, perhaps with the above section in mind, I’m tempted to wonder if the owners of the piles are a little worried about what might be lurking in the lower layers, and consequently keep adding to the pile so as not to get to the bottom and disturb wildlife that might have moved in!!

Céteaux meniere: Here my French Mistress sowed the seeds of an explanation, suggesting that my scribbled note perhaps related to something I had read on a menu or seen outside a restaurant as it bears a resemblance to the dish “sole or truite (trout) meunière.” Research in my fish book discovered that a fish a little like a baby Dover sole is called séteaux or cétaux in French, but my large French dictionary translates meunière as “Mistress of the Mill, Miller’s Wife or longtailed titmouse!” So what then are the possibilities: simply a sole / trout dish, this dish as devised by the miller’s mistress or wife, or a fish fillet stuffed with a titmouse – take your pick!!

BUT, French Sticks or Baguettes: still largely a mystery, although again my Mistress tried to help! Maybe, she thought, the people are catering on mass for a canteen such as for school dinners, but if this was the case I think the camionette de boulangerie (baker’s van) would deliver them! Then she thought maybe the leftovers could be used for a popular French dish – pain perdu or perhaps you might know it better as eggy bread!! But as she says, there’s a limit to how much of this you could eat, and none of the people are carrying large quantities of eggs, as well as the bread!!

Kind regards, Best Wishes and Love, Roger and Linda

And maybe to come next time? Who knows as we will have been away in the caravan for a few days, taken luncheon with Monsieur and spent half of the month back in “dear old blighty!!”

Thursday, July 29, 2010

The Chronicle ~ Missive 20

July 2010

Dear All

Hopefully you will find Missive 20 attached, apologies if you also receive Victoria’s updates – she beat me to it this time, hopefully you won’t feel too Higgsed out – two communications in one day!!!

Love

Roger

rogerhiggs@hotmail.co.uk

Mes chers amis

The Chronicle ~ Missive 20

“Sharing our house with friends is one of the real joys of Bel – Air, and finding that it is a special place for them too, is a bonus.” N.B: in our case for Bel – Air read La Loge, although there are about 8 Bel – Air’s within spitting distance!!

Particularly of flora and fauna: “There is the time and quiet here in which to wind down and observe this other world.”

Both of these very apt quotes come from “A Harvest of Sunflowers”
(also very apt as they are just coming up to their magnificently stunning best, all around us!) which is Book 2 of Ruth Silvestre’s partial escape to France, “Sunflower” trilogy.

Shortly before we packed up and moved here, I had read a lovely book by someone who had beaten us to it and done it already. Unfortunately, I can’t remember the title of the book and as it is at present languishing somewhere in a cardboard box in Stroud, I can’t go and have a look and discover it for you!!

However, the book was written about the first year of the author’s “escape to France” in much the same way as my missives and suggested the keeping of a chronicle with a number or sections, so prior to departure I edited my own chronicle framework to include the following sections or chapters and this missive and the next will pick up on some of the sections, as in many ways - more by luck than judgement - much of what I have recorded and projects I have undertaken during the last eighteen months fit haphazardly into the planned framework:

Writings Poems House
Garden Menus Postcards /Letters
Projects New Words Flowers and Trees
Animals and Birds Sketches Descriptions
Planting advice People Food
Miscellaneous

to which I subsequently, once we had “arrived” added a section on St Laurent, “our patch,” which contains any events in the village and the surroundings to which we have been.

Obviously there has been a good degree of overlap between some of the sections, as it is hard to separate out detailed pieces about people or the house, for example, from the missives (Writings) that hopefully you look forward to receiving! Also, some sections have remained barren, particularly the poems and sketches sections, although the artistic intentions have perhaps been, at least for the time being, superseded by my photographic endeavours and associated slide shows.

In short, much of what has been chronicled since our departure has come together for now as “My Blog” which contains the missives and much more, which in due course may well become the next “escape to France” book!!!

Garden

From last year the garden, at least the cultivated part has almost doubled, with three new borders, giving us lots of room for potatoes but also space for some newcomers.

And courgettes ........? Well, we made the perhaps unlikely decision to have as many plants as last year, despite the angst that it caused us the previous year, with sleepless nights caused by nightmares featuring giant courgettes chasing us around the garden!! But, having discovered so many great courgette recipes, including ones for chutney and pickled courgette, which over the course of the winter we had all but run out of, it seemed sensible to make more of the same for this winter. Sensible that is until the jars ran out and the great green giants once again started chasing us around the garden! I have just frozen the latest batch, which some books will tell you isn’t possible! But we have discovered that the best way to cook them afterwards, if you are not just adding them to a sauce, is to defrost them and roast them on an oven tray, spread with a little oil, it dries them up and gives them back some of their crunch.

The rest of the garden continues to produce plenty of fresh vegetables and fruit, the fruit just coming into ripeness, but much less of it this year. We will have a few black plums; very few cherry plums (last year there were so many that they were breaking the branches) and a hopefully a good crop of peaches as we are watering them well this year – now we know what they are!! I think they’ll be less fruit than last year, but each one bigger thanks to the extra watering.

From the top then we have growing or being picked, or have had; potatoes (probably three crops this year), a few parsnips from last year, purple sprouting, French beans (2 crops), onions (2 crops), sugar snap peas (possibly 2 crops), tomatoes, peppers, celery, celeriac, leeks, carrots (if the rabbit or hare that has set up home in the garden doesn’t get them first!), cabbage, beetroot, runner beans and not forgetting the courgettes!! Or should I say: pomme de terre, panais, violet germination (or broccoli violet peut-être!), haricot vert, oignon, pois mangetout, tomate, poivre vert, celery, celeriac, poireaux, carrotte, chou, betterave, haricot d’Espagne et courgette, in that order!!! And, that’s not to mention various herbs, salad leaves, radish and hedgerow or wild foods.

Mentioning the wild food, this grows in abundance and one of the food projects I am undertaking is a “Wild food map” locating on a map, the source of various ingredients for dishes such as my “Ditch Apple Pie!!” But more on the wild food of the region in a future missive.

People

Obviously, one person has featured a lot in previous missives and will again in the future, but for now it’s his dog Tottoon who is taking centre stage, well they are part of the family, and we see more of the dog than the master! Also, someone asked the other day if having a surrogate dog around helps, to which I’m sure the answer is yes, but not sure how we’ll feel once dog and master return to Spain at the end of the summer.

At the moment, following a couple of times when we have looked after Tottoon, she seems to have moved in! Previously, except for one occasion when she was caught around at ours, in a very heavy shower of rain, when we allowed her to sit on the mat just inside the door waiting for the rain to stop (which in itself is a little silly, as she likes nothing better than to plunge into the various ponds around and come out and roll around the grass drying off!!), she had always been very good and not tried to venture into the house, just sitting forlornly just outside the door gazing longingly with her big dark eyes, which she puts to good use, accentuating them by looking slightly askance and so framing one side with the brilliant white of the rest of her eyeball!! Monsieur says she has very astute eyes!!

Her first visit was just for the day, but we felt if she was being left with us for the first time, the second time longer and already planned but more of that later, then she should be allowed in, in part to prepare for the couple of nights that would follow a week or so later. Anyway, the first visit was whilst M. went off for Sunday lunch with some relations in a restaurant near Nantes, but with no shade in the car park, so he asked if she could stay with us. On the appointed day he came around with her, told her in Spanish (although like her master she seems to be fluent in at least Spanish, French and English!!) that she was staying with us and that he would be back and with that I held onto her collar as much to her puzzlement, he walked off around the corner, got in his car and drove off! Normally, he never goes anywhere without “his princess!”

Well, I held on to her until I felt he was clear of the avenue and Tottoon decided to roll on her back and have her tummy tickled, which as it turned out was a clever “I’m not bothered he’s gone ploy!” to get me to let go of her collar. Continuing the deception, she let me tickle her tummy for a few seconds, before in one quick motion turning over, jumping up and running off around the corner!! A little worried she would try to follow the car, I followed her and was surprised to see no sign of her on the road, instead she had headed home to the chateau jumped the moat (her normal entry point) as the inner gates were locked and finding the normally open front door tightly shut had taken up position on the step awaiting her master’s return. Unfortunately, the locked gate and the moat make it nigh on impossible for us to enter the inner part of the chateau grounds and she was there sitting in the bright sunshine at nearing the hottest part of the day!

We had already decided to take her for a walk in the shade of the woods and to let her cool down with a swim in the lake, but it looked a little as though I might be doing the swimming first, across the moat to get the dog who hopefully would recognise me and not carry out her guard duties too dutifully!! Thankfully, a couple of whistles and a call of her name and she came back, jumped back over the moat accepted the proffered chew and dutifully set off in front of us towards the woods. After a walk in the woods, a swim in the lake at least for Tottoon (M. says the lake can be swum in but has leeches in it!!!) and it was the acid test as we walked back passed the inner gates and turned towards our house and the outer gates. Totally, unconcerned Tottoon, without so much as a backwards glance, followed us home, although returning to guard duty later in the afternoon. This time she happily came when whistled and as I strolled back along the drive, totally “to the manor born” I thought M. was returning as a car similar to his pulled up at the chateau gates. Imagine then my surprise when the window came down and a voice said “Hello Roger” and I was confronted with a couple of friends from Stroud, who happened to be passing, (as you do!) and stopped off for a cup of tea!! But that’s another story, although unfortunately I wasn’t able to come out of the gates, they were locked and I had to duck around the side of the hedge and admit that the chateau wasn’t our abode, rather the servants quarters around the corner!!

But back to Tottoon, she welcomed our visitors and joined us for tea, waved them off afterwards, but was quite pleased when M. returned a short while later and she was able to go home with him!! But, she was back again for a walk with us later on after our dinner, so an afternoon slumming it in the servant’s quarters hadn’t put her off!!

This was just as well, as just a few days later the departure scenario was repeated this time with M. bringing Tottoon’s food and bed, together with an old sweaty tee shirt to keep her company as she slept, and having a longer conversation about how she was his princess, constant companion, partner, his all, and how he would miss her whilst he went into hospital for a minor op and a stay of a couple of nights. This time Tottoon was less concerned, although M. was convinced that she wouldn’t eat any of her dinner that he tipped out into her bowl, as she would be pining! Another walk and once she had been shown where her bed was, she settled very well, didn’t head back for the chateau, ate all her dinner and went happily to bed, and had even pushed out the tee shirt in the morning!!!

She was however, delighted to see her master back, made a big fuss of him and went home with him, although as he was tired and took to bed she was back within half an hour, feeling even better as we had now our next lot of visitors, who included a couple of girls, aged 10 and 12, who were more than happy to respond to astute eyes and proffered tummy!! That night we had a real job persuading her to go home, posting her over the moat several times before she got the message that her bed had moved back. Funnily enough, now she rarely waits to be invited in, finding our tiled floors nice and cooling in the very hot weather, but has not once ventured down to passage to the bedroom where her bed was, when she became our lodger. She is still spending a lot of time with us, but now after the evening walk, all I have to say is “Bon Nuit” by the outer gates and off she goes!!

Also, we have begun to be able to place some of the other St Laurentians, as the inhabitants are known, in addition to the three other English couples we have met who live in the commune, two permanently having sold up back home in the UK and moved lock, stock and barrel, the others spending summer here, but retreating back to the UK for the winter, less silly than it might seem at first as the winters can be quite harsh in these ‘ere parts! It seems increasingly likely that this is what we may end up doing – a small place in the Vendée and The Parrot House back in Stroud, fitting life round the two.

After a few false starts, I think we have finally sorted out the family of the farmer who keeps an eye on and tends the chateau in Monsieur’s absence. He and his wife live in the farmhouse over the field from the end of the avenue, with the youngest son, Mickael, who lives we think in a self contained part of the house. The older brother lives in a bungalow next door with his wife and three daughters and the farmer’s daughter is married to the fauchage (village grass cutting etc) man, and live in a modern bungalow across a couple of fields with their two daughters. The daughter in law’s best friend lives at St Laurent’s other chateau “Le Plessis” in the converted stable block and her and her husband look after the big house and several other people in and around the village, including possibly the Mayor, M. le Maire, all seem to have connections with the farmer and his family. We even seem now to have got most of their names, so as time goes by the “family tree” might be expanded!!

Food

To some extent following on from the section in the last missive; “Chilli Pasta,” food has understandably featured large during our time in France, not only for ourselves now having the time should we so wish to “stuff mushrooms!!” But also, for the many visitors that we have received and needed to send on their way well “fed and watered,” with some typical French style meals to look fondly back on, as part of their holiday memories.

After the last missive, where I talked about recipe searching, I found the following Nigel Slater quote on his website, it completely sums up what I feel about recipes and how I often modify accordingly! “I have always felt that a recipe be something to inspire, remind and lightly influence rather that a set of instructions to be followed, pedantically, to the letter.” How very right! We have at the moment visitors who we hadn’t seen previously for well over ten years. They used to live a few doors down when we lived in Huntingdonshire, and nearly every weekend we would get together to eat at each other’s houses or to go out for a meal or a drink. The other night after dinner, Mary paid me the compliment of saying that I was still a good “chef!” My response took her a little by surprise, as I thanked her and said that I thought I was actually better!! It wasn’t meant to brag or show off, I just think that between then and now I have gone from the learning and following the recipe book stage, to knowing instinctively what goes with what and being able to cook “off the cuff” as it were, with the odd bit of research into my various cookery books, particularly when looking for something new, regional or for flavours that go together that I hadn’t thought about before – for example courgette makes a mean cake and the recipe for courgette and ground pepper muffins is on the comment at the end of the July 2009 Blog entry. Try it, it goes together deliciously, like chilli and chocolate which is particularly good with a venison steak!!!

Just a flavour for those yet to sample La Loge fayre and a reminder for those who already have, here are some of this year’s recipes (in no particular order!): Mogette (Vendée beans which to achieve their creamy best, must be boiled for a minimum of 3 hours!) or Puy lentil casserole, warm potato and sausage salad with a grainy mustard dressing, fruit pizza, sorrel or courgette pancakes, pan-fried green beans, pan-fried duck breasts, pan-fried fish with creamy herb sauce, rice with garlic and crème fraiche, mushroom risotto and boudin noir (French black pudding which is softer than its French counterpart) with fried apple and mushrooms ...... the list goes on and on and others may feature in future missive. And, if we take Nigel Slater’s quote above to heart, you don’t need the recipes, just the seeds, a little imagination and some experimentation, for example the boudin noir is great moulded into a tall thin cylinder (an empty tomato purée tin works well) served on top of a slice of lightly grilled French bread that has been rubbed with raw garlic! Try it, or a variation that you come up with and see for yourself!!

For those of you concerned that since Max is no longer with us, we will have to eat his share of the bread, don’t despair!! As the nub ends collected and I didn’t have the heart to throw them away, a little research came up with a number of recipes that involve breadcrumbs or stale bread, which have since been added to the repertoire, including quite the silkiest fresh fruit bread pudding I have ever tasted! As I say, another for that list above!

St Laurent

I have discussed previously the village, or commune, in which we are currently living, with particular reference to “village finance” and indeed once again we have received a full colour 32 page “Bulletin Municipal” giving us all the gen on the previous twelve months. Indeed, we are featured on the Page 6 État Civil ~ “naissances – marriages – décès – nouveaux arrivants 2009” “births, marriages, deaths, and newcomers 2009” where we are welcomed to the village. But it didn’t stop at that, as shortly after receiving the bulletin, we received a flier late in December, from M. le Maire, informing the residents about the forthcoming annual meeting and “Ceremonie des Voeux” “Welcoming Ceremony” to take place on 22nd January 2010. But to be sure, in the next post, we received a personal invite from Sébastien ROY, Maire de Saint-Laurent de la Salle inviting us “plus particulièrement” “more particularly” to the ceremony, in order to be officially welcomed into the commune, to meet the Municipal Council, other inhabitants and to find out about the different associations (clubs and organisations) that take place within the commune.

Fortunately, at this time our winter travels for a family wedding, Christmas and the New Year had finished and we were back at La Loge, trying to keep warm and find things to talk to each other about, as “surprisingly” the visitors dried up a little once the sun had gone!! I therefore felt that as we had received our own invitation, despite the lack of an RSVP, a well used English acronym which actually as I’m sure you know stands for a French phrase one of several in common usage in England, I felt that we should at least acknowledge and accept the invitation, and say how we were looking forward to meeting M. le Maire, so duly sent a notelet to this effect, in of course my best, or should that be google translate’s best!, French!

I was pleased I had done this, as when we arrived at the event, M. le Maire, looking quite uncomfortable in a suit a tie, he’s a young agricultural contractor and mostly around in jeans and tee shirt, came straight over welcomed us and thanked us for the note, all in French as he doesn’t speak any English!! There followed a very pleasant evening, with the “parish report” and then presentations to the newcomers of a goody bag with a poster of the mairies of the Vendée, some leaflets about environmental concerns and a lovely full colour book about a variety of gardens in all parts of the area. Then drinks were served and we felt well and truly welcomed into the community.

“Ici devant nous!”

This is the “Flowers and Trees” and “Animals and Birds” sections rolled into one, and as I said last time will catalogue some of nature’s splendours that surround us and continue to surprise us. Indeed, having just gone out onto the avenue to look for Tottoon, the Chateau dog, who was lodging with us for a couple of days, I saw my second red squirrel but the first close to home, nonchalantly hopping and bobbing along the grass verge, noticeably smaller than the grey squirrels I am used to at home. These larger gray species, have it is claimed driven the reds out, although recently I did see some evidence that in the right situation the two can co-exist relatively peacefully together, something politicians have been trying to achieve, in places like the middle east, for many years!!

But the main theme this time is frogs, and I hasten to remind you that this section is about wildlife!! You may have read previously about the large toad that waited patiently, and continues to do so, on the front doorstep, just waiting for someone to bite the bullet and pick it up give it a kiss and wait for the consequences!! Also, I’ve told you about the noisy frogs, initially mistaken for “invisible” ducks that croaked at great volume on the nearby small lake and indeed any suitable body of water, at times when the sap was rising and this year they have totally surpassed themselves, which I suppose accounts for the near plague like numbers of tiny miniature frogs that are everywhere, including last night under one of our young visitors beds. At first she and her cousin who is also staying, thought it was a large piece of fluff, until it jumped!! And, it’s the jumping to which I want to turn in this section.

These frogs are, as I said, everywhere and it is quite hard not to stand on one as you walk outside, in the garden, along the road, in the park – as I said everywhere!! They are perfectly formed replicas of the adults, dark olive green / brown in colour and by can they jump!! Most at the moment seem to be up to 2 cm in length and either aren’t growing or as they grow they become better at keeping out of our way with more youngsters growing up to replace them. At first when you come across them they scatter as you walk, and you might well mistake them for the many grasshoppers that frequent the area, but closer inspection reveals these tiny amphibians, with an impressive jumping ability. It is not uncommon for one of these frogs to jump 50 cm, or 25 times the length of their body.

Equate this to a human being of 1.8 m in height who would have to jump about 45 m in a single stride to compete, so pretty impressive and as they can put several of these jumps together in quick succession, catching those that have decided to come indoors during the balmy evenings we have been having, when the door doesn’t get shut until late, is not only a case of out flanking them and then catching them in the cut off two litre lemonade bottle with a cardboard piece cut to slide under the opening, but also somewhat amusing to watch!!

My original “thought!”

The thought that crosses my mind this month is, that not many of you will believe that I could stick to the theme of “What we have been doing, have seen or plan to do!!” as promised! Not least “her indoors” otherwise known as my greatest critic!

Kind regards, Best Wishes and Love, Roger and Linda

And maybe to come next time? Even more of the same: “What we have been doing, have seen or plan to do!!,”